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Wednesday, 22 May 2013

CLIO Reviewathon Part I

This post was originally going to start with the word "recently". Unfortunately my lackadaisicalness as a blogger means that I now have to begin "several moons ago...."

So several moons ago, the lovely ladies from Peach and Lily, an America-based e-shop stocking some more unusual brands from Korea and Japan, sent me a parcel full of Clio products to try. Their professionalism, attention to detail, niche stock and lightning-fast shipping [they will be rolling out international shipping soon] recalls the early days of zuneta, and the beautiful (pahrpal!) wrapping and handwritten note added to the boutique experience. If you go play on their site, you'll also find thoughtful editorials and ingredients lists(!!! -- take note every other retailer and brandsite ever) as well.

The unpurpled contents (minus a generous stack of Korean skincare samples):
As always, my reviews express my own uncensored opinions of these products, formed over several months *procrastinator's cough* of use. I have split the review into two posts -- this one includes product pictures, ingredients, swatches and my thoughts on texture and performance, and the following post will show the products on mah face in various iterations, inspired by the youtube videos of Korean makeup artist Jung Saem Mool.

CLIO Professional is a mid-range Korean brand which features several cult eye products -- their liners in particular are as popular as those by La Rose de Versailles or K-Palette in Japan. The brand's image is a little edgier than the usual cute, office-safe or my-face-but-better offerings and pigmentation across these products are consequently stronger than you might expect of an Asian brand. Clio also markets itself as international: many of these products are manufactured in Germany or Italy (both producers of awesome liners), and others bear striking resemblances to popular Japanese formulas.


1. Eye Guard Waterproof Liner

I wrote about this amusingly-shaped contraption honeymoonishly and after two months it has retained its place in my daily staples drawer. Its tapered yet bendable felt-tip uncaps evenly saturated with liquid and draws a perfectly even, opaque line at every angle from tip to base for everything from tightlining (absolute tip) and barely-there liner (angled tip) to waterlining or an epic wing (side), and that never dispenses too much liquid to clump or blob. A true, dense black in a formula balanced perfectly between slickness and quick-drying, and a finish neither flat matte (which for blacks can tend to ashiness) nor obviously glossy, this has replaced every other plain black liner I own and I've already purchased a backup ready to go.
After a week in Hong Kong with 30ºC+ and 90%+ humidity, I can report that despite taking about ten seconds to apply, it lasts through even the sweatiest, rainiest, Asian-long-hoursiest workday without issue. All that, and it removes easily with my regular Fancl cleansing oil, leaving no stain behind (as some of the most tenacious Japanese liquids can).
And, ashamed as I am to admit it, the ridiculous packaging is extremely ergonomic.

Made in Germany. Ingredients.


Applicator Comparison 
The Clio is the softest and most malleable (but not at all floppy) felt-tip I've ever tried, almost more like a very dense, precise sponge. It has a second taper right at the end which allows for extremely fine dotting in between lashes used at a 90º angle, making it in practice just as efficient at precise lining as the Hourglass Script Precision liner, which feels like you're tattooing your lashline with each incredibly painful stab. The Kiko Super Colour liquid liner felt-tip is exactly the same as those found on Stila, MUFE, MAC Liquidlasts and a plethora of others.


2. Waterproof Brush Liner Kill Black
One of Clio's cult products, this liquid liner pen came in a set with an O'Tank Volume mascara mini (reviewed below no. 4). 

As with the Eye Guard liner, this applies smoothly as a rich saturated black liquid in an impressively water- and smudge-proof formula which is non-staining and a breeze to remove at the end of the day. Its formula is very slightly wetter and glossier than the felt-tip's, so you have a little more time to smoke edges, add layers or correct any hiccups. Though the traditional brush is faster for big wings like wot they show on the box, I still prefer the Eye Guard liner for sheer versatility and wackiness, but that's not to denigrate this one in any way -- it is very similar to and every bit as good as the very best Japanese liquid liner pens I've tried in the past (KATE Super Sharp and La Rose de Versailles being my favourites).

Perhaps unsurprisingly then, this is formulated in Japan although made in Korea. Ingredients.


Applicator Comparison: 
The Clio WP Brush tip is most similar to the latest incarnation of KATE Super Sharp (S) in shape, though marginally pointier and with a longer length closer to that of La Rose de Versailles' Oscar liner. There isn't really much to choose from between the four Japan-formulated pens on the right -- clearly I have very specific brush liner tastes. (I hasten to add that the other three are all ones I've finished and kept around for blog pic purposes.) The Clio Twisturn brush is noticeably thicker and softer -- of which more below in #3.



3. Waterproof Twisturn Liner 6 Night Purple and 7 Club Black
As shown in the comparison pic above, these sparkly liquid liners come with a thicker, loftier and softer brush than your average plain black pen liner, and the formula is also runnier, a light liquid that borders on gel. Unlike the automatic Brush Liner or Eye Guard Liner, you twist the bottom of these pens to dispense the amount of pigment required -- one click for a delicate wash with sparse shimmer; two or three for an opaque glitter-packed line in a darker, richer version of the colour. These do layer excellently, over themselves or other gel/liquid liners laid down as base, so building up to a graphic wing doesn't result in flaking or balling up; it just takes a bit more time. Personally, I find the combination of high-slip formula and bendy brush a bit overwhelming on my small eyes, and tend to reach for a more precise brush to pick up product from the clicked-up blob, dab off any excess on the back of my hand, and apply separately.

Single line swatches:

Three layers:

Even when built up, Night Purple has more of a pearlised finish with pink and blue microshimmer, while Club Black is darkest gunmetal with silver glitter of various sizes and a finer rainbow of microshimmer scattered through. Of the two, I prefer Club Black -- its base is texturally lighter and so doesn't set to the more solid-looking film of Night Purple, and scattered sparkle tends to be more flattering on my skin. Both however, are tubing liners, which means they form a film as they set and remove (with cleansing oil) in little clumps or balls like the waterproof glitter liquid liners from Stila, MUFE etc.

Comparison swatches
Night Purple with Kiko Super Colour Eyeliner in 110 Pearly Regal Purple, Pixi Black Tulip and THREE Eye Belong.

Club Black with THREE Eye Rock, Clio Gelspresso Liner Golden Black (see below #4) and RBR Long-Lasting Pencil Calypso.

Overall, the Twisturn liners are very similar to the Japanese cult favourite Majolica Majorca Perfect Automatic Liners, but are made in Korea. Ingredients.


4. Gelspresso Waterproof Pencil Gel Liner 3 Golden Khaki and 7 Golden Black
This was the one Clio product I had heard of before Peach and Lily wrote to me, shimmery gel pencils famed for bold pigment and lasting power even on the oiliest hooded lids in humid East Asian summers. My lids produce zero oil :( but while not the creamiest these have enough slip not to drag, and since arriving in Hong Kong I can testify that they remain pristine through a drenching by tropical rainstorm and some aggressive sleep-deprived watery-eye-rubbing.
Each twist-up pencil includes a sharpener in the base -- helpfully, because while not as buttery as the Pixi or THREE liners I adore, these are after all gels and do blunt quickly, so if you want a very neat-edged shape, you'll have to sharpen the tip often, use a separate brush, or prepare to clean up. Or, of course, you can go with the grunginess of a blunt tip and scribble these on before blending/smoking out with a pencil brush. On my dry lids, I get about 10 seconds of blending time before the unbudgeable setting; most people will have a bit longer to work with -- from what I've read, around 30 seconds seems average and should suffice for a great smokey eye.

One stroke swatches on top, built-up scribbles below -- there isn't too much difference in either precision or opacity. I particularly like that both these shades marry a cooler, ashier base with neutral-to-warm gold shimmer -- it makes for balanced, versatile colours that complement a wide range of shadows.

Comparison swatches
Golden Khaki with Kiko Super Colour Eye Liner 113 Olive Green and THREE Eye Doll.

See above in section #3 for Golden Black comparisons.

I found these most comparable to the Rouge Bunny Rouge twist-up Long-Lasting Eye Pencils, which I also like very much. Formulated in Italy, made in China. Ingredients.



5. Friday Glow Liquid Eyeshadow 2 Sheer Beige and 5 Deepen Brown
I adore non-powder formulas but am consequently extremely picky about them; my record with liquid eyeshadows has been rocky -- Rouge Bunny Rouge's elegant demi-matte neutrals are staples, but various formula niggles prevent me from truly loving those from Ellis Faas, Paul&Joe and Addiction. These Clio Friday Glow Liquid Eyeshadows have made the utter love list. Ridiculously silkily blendable with that dry silicone slip, wearable as a gossamer veil or easily layered to make a opaque washes packed with multi-toned, multi-sized sparkle, these dimensional neutrals have stayed in my weekly rotation for months.

Topped with dense but soft pencil brushes (around the dimensions of the No 7 Smokey Eye Brush of Lisa Eldridge fame) rather than the more usual sponge tip or synthetic flat brush, it's actually feasible for me to both apply and blend these straight from the tube in a pinch, though a separate blending brush does yield smoother results. Initially dispensing as an unusual 'dry liquid' much like the RBR creams, these set to a very elegant lightweight creamy-powder finish undetectable on the lids, and remains blendable, so you can take your time and make a range of shapes, much like any good powder shadow.
In complexity of sparkle, ease of use, lasting power, and zero fallout, they rival the Sonia Rykiel mousse eyeshadows which are some of the most dazzling I've ever encountered.

Straight-from-the-tube swatches: 

Comparison swatches:
Sheer Beige with the peach from Suqqu 01 Kakitsubata, the peach from Visee x Smacky Glam BR-7 Bitter Brown, Sonia Rykiel Mousse Eyeshadow 05, beige side from Paul&Joe Eye Gloss Duo 05 Bourgeoisie, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Convoitise, RBR Sleeping Underneath a Mandarin Tree pigment, gold from Suqqu 06 Ginbudou, Fyrinnae Nijiro.

Close-up with fuzz of Clio Sheer Beige, Sonia Rykiel 05, Paul&Joe Bourgeoisie and Chanel Convoitise -- this gives a truer idea of the complexity of texture irl.


Deepen Brown with the darker side of P&J Eye Gloss Duo in Bourgeoisie, Kiko Long-Lasting Stick Eyeshadow 04 Golden Chocolate, RBR Long-Lasting Eye Pencil Lola, darkest shade from Visee x Smacky Glam BR-7 Bitter Brown.

Close-up of P&J Bourgeoisie, Clio Deepen Brown and Kiko Golden Chocolate (most texturally accurate):

Made in Germany. Ingredients.


6. Mascaras: Twistup Long Lash and Curling, O'Tank Volume
I am even pickier about mascaras than I am about most other things, so let's get the positives out of the way first. Both of these formulas are true black, neither too wet nor too dry, unscented, are waterproof but not too crispy, and easily removed with cleansing oil, don't smudge or flake throughout the day, and the bristle brushes are of reasonable size, with a slight curve to fit around the eye and well designed, so that you don't end up with globs of formula or have to resort to scraping out the inside of the tube to try and get something onto the brush.

Brush comparisons
Maybelline Rocket Volum'Express WP, Fasio Full Dynamic Volume, Clio O'Tank Volume, Clio Twistup Long Lash and Curling, Majolica Majorca Lash Expander Edge Meister.

Now for the dealbreakers. Twistup Long Lash is a very thin, dry, fibre formula, which adds length but no volume. For my reasonably long but very thin lashes, that just results in anemic splindliness. Those with straight but naturally thicker lashes might find this a good everyday no-mascara mascara; the brush is dainty and fits wonderfully around every contour and would work as a lower-lash brush too. If only it was fibre-free, this would've made a good replacement for my discontinued HG defining mascara, Shu Mascara Basic.
fibresssss


The O'Tank Volume dealbreaker is simply that it wilts my curl. This is a scant five minute after application:
O'Tank's thicker bristles and formula can also make it start to clump after a few strokes (as you can spot on my outer lower lashline); it leaves lashes soft enough that the clumps are easily brushed through, but I am too lazy to bother doing that with a lacklustre formula.

Both mascaras are made in Korea. Twistup ingredients. O'Tank ingredients.


In conclusion (pause for gusty sighs of relief from the two people still reading), this is the first Korean brand with this impressive a hit-rate for me. The standouts for me are the Eye Guard Liquid Liner (#1) and Friday Glow Liquid Eyeshadows (#5) but I would also heartily recommend the Waterproof Brush Liner (#2) and Gelspresso Liners (#4), especially to those who tend to experience smudging with eyeliners. Twisturn Liners (#3) are worth a try if you're after easy-to-use sparkly liquids and dislike felt-tip applicators, but for me Kiko Super Colour are still the winners.
Both mascaras were fails for me, but if your lash issues are opposite to mine (i.e. thick, shorter lashes) and have small eyes Twistup Long Lash, with its delicate lengthening waterproof formula and dainty brush, might prove a winner. O'Tank would be a decent volumising formula for the naturally curly-lashed, but isn't so exceptional that it's worth going out of your way to track down.

Friday, 3 May 2013

Friday Frivolity: Polish Stash

I was so inspired by cilucia's latest stash post, I'm going to steal the whole thing, including her first paragraph. ;) Real Life has been kicking my arse, and shows no signs of letting up, but I will try my best to post at least once a week, begging your pardons if I miss one.

In the meantime, here's a state of the stash post: nail polish edition! With thanks to the commentators on my last nail post -- you can see the results of the edit now :)

Tops, Whites, Yellows
YSL Première Neige, Orly Love Each Other and Fifty Four, Models Own Jack Frost, A-England Morgan Le Fay,
Deborah Lippmann Amazing Grace, Kiko 355 Canary Yellow, Barry M 134 Yellow

Nudes and Metallics
OPI Barre My Soul and You Callin' Me A Lyre?, China Glaze Tinsel, I'm Not Lion and Swing Baby,
Butter London Tart With a Heart, Yummy Mummy and Wallis

Greys and Greyed Shades
Nail Pattern Boldness Oodiful, China Glaze Pelican Grey and Sea Spray, Butter London Lady Muck, CG Elephant Walk,
OPI Done Out In Deco, Catrice Steel My Heart, Rescue Beauty Lounge Insouciant, BL No More Waity Katie

Blues and Teals
Orly Pixie Dust, Essie Smooth Sailing, YSL Bleu Majorelle, OPI Get Your Number,
Butter London Artful Dodger and Victoriana, A-England St. George

Greens
Eyeko Vintage Polish, Essie Mojito Madness, China Glaze He's Going in Circles and Emerald Sparkle,
Smitten Polish I Want It Now, Barry M Gelly Hi-Shine Watermelon, Butter London Jack the Lad

Purples
Models Own Southern Lights, A-England Guinevere, Hare Polish Cast In Bronze and Medusa Luminosa,
Smitten Polish You're Turning Violet, Violet, Zoya Tru, Barry M Dusky Mauve, Kiko 255 Violet Microglitter

Pinks, Roses, Berries
Barry M 352 Pink Sapphire, Models Own Northern Lights, OPI Last Friday Night and The Impossible,
Kiko 283 Dark Coral Pink and 361 Raspberry Pink, Butter London Disco Biscuit,Pahlish Your Possible Heart, Zoya Blaze, China Glaze Stroll

Corals and Reds
Deborah Lippmann Daytripper, Kiko 362 Poppy Red, Pahlish Pianos Filled with Flames, OPI Quarter of a Cent-Cherry,
China Glaze Ruby Pumps, a franken by my darling sasquatch swatch, Elevation Polish Toubkal

Darks -- cream to shimmer
A-England Camelot, OPI Lincoln Park After Dark, Addiction Amaranto, Rescue Beauty Lounge Recherché,
Lex Lucky In Love, Estée Lauder Molten Lava, Clarins 230, Max Factor Fantasy Fire

Darks -- sparkles
A-England Beauty Never Fails, Crows Toes A Christmas Crow, China Glaze Midtown Magic,
OPI My Private Jet and Stay the Night, Orly Fowl Play

Glitters
Lynnderella Blue Rouge, Rescue Beauty Lounge Look Rich Be Cheap, Hare Why So Igneous? and Bury the Hatchetfish,
Pahlish Typewriter Keys, Lynnderella The Stars in Her Eyes, Butter London The Black Knight, Sasquatch franken

Jellies
OPI Big Hair Big Nails, Too Hot Pink To Hold 'Em, Do You Think I'm Tex-y?, Houston We Have a Purple,
Zoya Paloma and Frida, Colorama Sombra, Gota, Bola de Gude 

Tops and Tails
CND Stickey, Butter London Nail Foundation, A-England The Knight and The Shield,
Gelous, Butter London Hardwear, Sally Hansen Insta-Dri

Current Top Twelve
BL Tart With a Heart, Pahlish Typewriter Keys, Hare Bury the Hatchetfish, OPI Done Out in Deco,
CG He's Going in Circles, A-E St. George, YSL Bleu Majorelle, OPI Quarter of a Cent-Cherry,
CG Ruby Pumps, BL Disco Biscuit, Zoya Paloma, Orly Fowl Play

I have a few more bottles of RBL and Paul&Joe (left in Hong Kong) but in total I try to keep the collection at (just) under 100 bottles. They live in four stackable drawers from Muji, with a swatch fan 'table of contents' for each drawer bcause I'm crazy swatchsicles are fun to make, okay?
This is an old pic, when I only had two boxes full. Last year *cough*

Saturday, 27 April 2013

Les Merveilleuses Ladurée Cream Cheek Base 102

Older readers will know that my favourite blush colour is red, and in general I operate under the unspoken assumption that brighter is always better. The fevered macaque-butted clown-harlot aesthetic, y'know.

But! To balance that obsession is its kind-of opposite (doin' my bit for cosmic balance), my perennial hunt for pastel blushes that actually look pastel on my pasty skin. [Some shades often called pastel, chalky even, which are mid-tones on me: Illamasqua Katie, Benefit Georgia/Dandelion, Shu M 225, Mac Well Dressed, Fyrinnae Seduce, Nars Sex Appeal....] Having finally found a lavender-pink pale and cool enough to read as unspeakably hideously chalky to most / deliciously editorially chalky to me in Dainty Doll's Hippy Hippy Shake [better pics here], I've stepped up my efforts to find her a peachy sister.

Ladurée released two limited edition shades of its cream cheek base this spring, one of which seemed the truly-pastel peach of my dreams, and corrupted aided by So Lonely In Gorgeous, I managed to acquire a delicious macaron creme egg in shade 102:
PEEEEEEEACH!
Now the packaging is truly, stupendously, excessively hideous. My pictures can't convey just how ungainly and (though I hate this word) tacky the whole thing is -- it takes an act of evil genius to engineer something at once flimsy and clunky.
must work out how to depot. now.
In formula, like the Ladurée pressed powder blush I tried last year, this cream is quite dry, though thankfully not drying. The best way to apply is, as Ladurée themselves recommend, to draw on your face straight from the egg and then blend out with fingers or a brush -- it is very difficult to pick up any colour from the egg with a brush (however dense), and to pick up pigment evenly is almost impossible. Once on the skin, the high-silicone, silky-matte feel makes it easy to work with, much like a finely milled, silky powder blush (e.g. Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry), it's a snap to get a smoothly blended, unpatchy result. I do think that it'll get trickier to lay down more directional shapes once the dome wears down, but we'll see... update you in 5 years, mmmkay?

Because despite its high-whimsy stylings this blush is impressively pigmented. The right swatch is one swipe from the egg, and the left is the same, but blended out -- see how far it goes?

Once blended out, the strong white base on which this peachy pink sits also becomes dispersed so that the shade remains a pastel even on my pale skin, while never looking chalky / sitting too flatly on top of my clear colouring. (Grace has the best breakdown of this distinction here.)

More practically, blending also disperses the sparse white-gold glitter running through 102, making each speck easier to pick out :P Obviously zero shimmer is best for me (no catching on my dry skin), but large/sparse flecks I can work with, while fine/dense glitter presents more of a problem, hence my issues with Chanel Notorious or Tom Ford Narcissist.

Still not ideal, but as this Ladurée shade so perfectly fills a niche in my blush wardrobe, I'll live with it for now. Comparison with some peaches and pinks (since this is so well balanced in between):

Dolce & Gabbana Nude and Provocative
Shu Uemura M520 (Colour Atelier) and Sakura (limited edition Spring 2006)
Becca Guava and Lychee beach tints 
Illamasqua Rude cream blush
RMS Beauty Smile lip2cheek


The main thing to note is my tendency to acquire peach/pink pairs from the same lines 102's unusual bright-pastel effect, making most of the other shades appear dusty or ruddy in comparison, and Becca Lychee almost neon.


Look 1: White
A wash of whites on the eye for maximum exaggeration if 102's unique bright-pastel base: Kiko long-lasting eyeshadow stick 01 Pearly White [swatch], the white satin from Suqqu 09 Koju (discontinued, spring 2009), the blue-white from Suqqu EX-12 Hisuidama (limited edition spring 2013 [swatch]), Sugarpill Tako as the most matte and pigmented white to 'shade' the upper lashline, and GOSH white kohl on the waterline.
To stop my eyes from disappearing altogether under this blanket of snow, I ran Rouge Bunny Rouge Sweet Dust Seriema under the lower lashline and very, very lightly through the socket.

Lips: YSL Glossy Stain 27 Peche Cerra Cola
Cheeks: Laudree 102, duh, in a circular, apples of the cheek placement
Highlight: More white, courtesy of Shiseido High Beam White through the centre of the face


Look 2: Grey
A more wearable modulation of the white-out eye -- Suqqu's grey-based purple quad 10 Sakuragi (discontinued, spring 2009) in a soft vertical gradation on the eyes, paired with a more 'natural' blush placement for me: placed on the apples and blended up and out along the cheekbone. The lip is another limited edition Suqqu (Noble Nuance lipstick EX-03 Shumomo from spring 2010), which shares Ladurée 102's bright-pastel peachy-pinkness.


Look 3: Brights
To show that this blush can also function as an unobtrusive neutral/balancing element tying a bold lip and eye together, I've paired it with Shu Uemura Smoky Velvet (LE Christmas 2012, N. American version) and Addiction Le Mépris Lip Crayon.
Foundation to ground this stronger look: Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture 001.

This time, I applied the blush very lightly along the lower edge of my cheekbone and blended lightly inwards -- almost like a contour.


Constants: Shu Uemura Underbase Cream Pink and RBR Sea of Clouds highlighter as base; Shu Uemura Hard 9 Seal Brown brow pencil and Suqqu 02 Brown brow pen; Fasio Full Dynamic Volume mascara BR300.