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Friday, 25 November 2011

Emptied or Expelled

Hopefully the first in a series: some scattershot, scatterbrained reviews of some products I've recently finished, and a few I've given up on. (On that note, stay tuned for a small blog sale.)

EMPTIED
(apologies for 'artistic' lighting)

REN Moroccan Rose Otto Body Cream £26 for 200ml
Very light-textured cream that sinks in immediately without stickiness. However, it was only just moisturising enough for me in extremely hot and humid weather, and the bottle lasted me just under a month, making it too rich for my blood. The scent is more thin and synthetic than that of shower gel from the same line, which I still love.

DHC Mild Touch Cleansing Oil $14 for 150ml. Ingredients.
The original DHC cleansing oil is too drying for me; I much preferred this version. Unscented, odd thickish texture, and it wasn't as efficient as my usual Fancl at removing heavy makeup. However, you can use it on wet skin, so awesome for those days when you forget to slap some oil on BEFORE jumping in the shower.

Naruko Magnolia Brightening and Firming Serum HK$200 for 30ml. Ingredients.
No brightening that I could see, but it did visibly help reduce facial puffiness and impending double-chindom (dam you, salty snacks, why must you be so delicious?) -- perhaps purely cosmetic as the v-line again went u-wards as soon as I stopped using it. Layered well with my other skincare and I enjoyed the medicinal floral scent -- may repurchase in preparation for Christmas boozefests / January comfort-eating. Two pumps daily = two months' use.

Juju Aquamoist Hyaluronic Acid Essence HK$145 for 30ml
Ingredients: Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben.
Great, basic hydrating serum for all skintypes -- totally weightless and actually too light for my dry skin except in extreme heat/humidity. Four pumps daily means that a bottle barely lasts a month. Will not repurchase, as I prefer the more cost-effective Mandom Beauty serum. 

Skinfree UV Mild Milk SPF38 PA+++ HK$75 for 30ml at adambeauty. Ingredients.
The best all-physical sunscreen I've tried thus far. I use it over the very thin, sensitive skin on my neck and chest and sometimes layer it over Ducray on my face to take down the shine on exceptionally hot days. It has a spreadable, light gel-cream texture which I find easier to work with than the very liquidy Japanese 'milk' sunscreens, and it's not as flat matte or drying as Sunkiller Baby Milk SPF38 PA+++, also from Kiss Me. No white cast on my admittedly pasty self. Already repurchased.

Sun Bears Cool S SPF50+ PA+++ HK$38 for 30ml at adambeauty. Ingredients.
I bought this because it was cheap and the red 'Super S' version (which has been my body sunscreen all summer since glossedintranslation introduced us) was out of stock that day. It does feel cooling and minty-fresh upon application, which is weird, but kind of enjoyable when reapplying on a sweltering day. Sets immediately to a silky, powdery finish with some white cast -- the powder has a slight tendency to rub off onto clothes/bags. Sensitives: bear in mind it does contain fragrance and menthol (but no alcohol).

Ducray Melascreen Emulsion SPF50+ €10.90 for 40ml at vitalya.fr. Ingredients.
Blah blah holy grail blah. The only high-PPD avo-free sunscreen I can stand. In winter, I switch to the cream version. I use 5 pumps daily and a tube lasts about 4 weeks. 

MAC Face and Body Foundation White £25.50 for 120ml at MAC Pro stores. 
It's been over three years, but I finally did it! :D One of my staple mixers, it works best with liquid foundations and other water-based formulations (like Lunasol Water Cream and the Sonia Rykiel cream foundation). Just a note: my bottle of this oil-and-water emulsion ostensibly separated years ago, but it worked just fine until the last drop. Shake vigorously before use and don't examine the goo too closely until you've done so.


EXPELLED

Neosporin Lip Health Daily Hydration Therapy SPF20 $5 for 10ml.
Thin, white lotion that leaves a clear, slightly oily but unsticky film on lips. It does no more for my lips than any other okay drugstore lip balm -- keeps them hydrated for a few hours, sinks in quickly for wear under lipsticks. BUT the scent/taste is truly revolting (synthetic and bitter) and it wears off my very dry lips far too quickly.

Korres Yoghurt Moisturising Cream £19 for 40ml.
I was recommended this for the humid Hong Kong weather but it's not remotely rich enough for my dry skin. It also did not layer well with other lotions/serums/fifty layers of crap I like to slap on daily.

Bobbi Brown EXTRA Eye Repair Cream £38 for 15ml.
Perfectly adequate moisturising eye cream, which was not enough for my very dry undereyes and also did nothing for puffiness and dark circles.

Ipsa Metabolizer ME Superior W2 HK$680 for 175ml.
I tried this expensive cult product based on the passionate raves and ethereally glowing skin from some people I trust, and don't get the fuss. It's just okay. Moisturises nicely, doesn't irritate. Possibly because I apply with fingers rather than doing the recommended massage with cotton pads (my skin doesn't like so much physical agitation).

Cure Natural Aqua Gel HK$220 for 250g. Ingredients.
Another fairly pricey (it's technically drugstore -- yikes) cult product that was an epic fail on me. Did nothing for my existing flakes, and gave me more, as well as leaving my face red and tight, despite my following the instructions to the letter and applying a hard-core moisturising sheet mask immediately afterwards. Patch-testing confirmed that my skin is just far too dry and sensitive for this stuff.

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Disclaimers
I am not affiliated with any of the sites linked to, nor will I profit in any way if you click through. (I only linked to ingredients lists of the more obscure stuff, the others are available on the brands' own sites or easily googleable.)
All products were either purchased by me, or received as personal gifts from friends.
All opinions are my own and based on my own experiences of these products; I am not a dermatologist / medical professional and have no professional training in this area.

Thursday, 24 November 2011

By Terry Foundation comparision swatches -- paler shades

Those who frequent makeupalley might know that earlier this year, I embarked on a slightly deranged scheme to swatch the paler shades of foundation from as many brands as I can get my hands on. Here is a belated comparison of the two new foundations from ByTerry (Cover Expert and Sheer Expert) with the rest of the line.

Patter summary (in case those links threw you into a where's-my-big-red-pen tailspin): Both foundations retail for £44 for a 35ml squeeze-tube and are imbued with "the futuristic I.M.C® Technology (Intensive Mimetic Camouflage)," hyaluronic acid and other unspecified "regenerating active ingredients." Both promise a 'velvet' matte-yet-light-diffusing finish with shine control and moisturisation suitable for all skintypes. Cover Expert offers more coverage.

My first impressions: the scent is very strong and very sweet rose with a hefty dose of powder. (If you're familiar with the ByTerry line, it is the powdery roses of the Blush Velouté rather than the cleaner tea roses of the skincare.) Both foundations had a great deal of silicone-y slip and texture-wise are somewhere between Armani Face Fabric foundations and Becca Beach Tints; both set completely matte on my dry skin.

I can't comment further because the shade range starts off too dark -- much darker than that of the recently-discontinued Lumiere Veloutée, which provided my only near-match in the line.

natural light


Left to Right:
Chantecaille Future Skin Porcelain (as a reference, because Chante was the next counter over)
The rest are all ByTerry
Cover Expert 1 Fair Beige
Cover Expert 2 Neutral Beige
Sheer Expert 1 Fair Beige
Sheer Expert 2 Neutral Beige
Teint Délectation 1 Milky Vanilla
Touche Veloutée concealer pen 1 Porcelain
Light Expert foundation brush 101 Beige Light
Light Expert foundation brush 1 Rosy Light

Wednesday, 23 November 2011

Dior Holiday 2011 Asian collection swatches

Based on the shoddiest of anecdotal evidence, Dior has always seemed to me to be more popular in East Asia than in Europe or America. The releases are (correspondingly?) bigger; the holiday 2011 collection in Hong Kong consists of two eyeshadow quints (to one in the EU/US) and eight lipsticks rather than four. The four nail polishes are the same.

Karla has swatches of the US range; here are the Asia-exlusive quint 544 Golden Pastels and all eight Rouge Diors, all two swipes each.

All items are limited edition. The quint retails for HK$480, the lipsticks for HK$245 each.

544 Golden Pastels
Textures/layout are similar to Couture Golds: four shimmers (Dior's typical soft, fine borderline-frosty formula) surrounding a holographic glitter shade.

Note: this looks much better (and more visible) on darker skintones than mine, such as the NC25ish Dior SA who was wearing it when I swatched.
natural light

artificial light+flash


Rouge Dior -- all shades have golden shimmer so look warmer once applied
527 Versailles
217 Or Etoilé
346 Invitation
451 Cinderella
654 Favorite
777 Fantastique
851 Aimée
961 Nocturne

natural light

natural light+flash (to hopefully capture the shimmer)

Tuesday, 22 November 2011

Makeover with Shu Uemura Wong Kar Wai collection

Recently, for my sins radiant beauty okay, can I have "hauling prowess" then?, I was offered a complimentary makeover at a Shu Uemura boutique. It's always interesting to see what someone else will do with your face and while I didn't like all my makeup artist's choices, I also picked up some useful tips, and had a fun hour chatting about makeup (offline! zomg).

The product (all pics in artificial light+flash)

The process
Preliminary chat established that I have dry skin, am not afraid of colour but hate shimmery lipsticks, and that she would otherwise have carte blanche.

Prep
I already wearing moisturiser and sunscreen, so skin was just spritzed lightly with Phyto-black Lift Radiance Boosting Lotion.

Face
Face Architect Smooth Fit foundation 584 mixed 1:1 with UV Underbase Fluid Pink and patted on using a pentagon sponge. New Point Cealer in 7 Light under eyes, blended in with a synthetic 10 brush.

Eyes
Wong Kar Wai Drowning in Flame palette: top two shades (the two leftmost shades in my swatch) layered over the lid and taken under the eyes, with more of the lighter purple concentrated in the centre of the upper lid. White-gold shimmer used to blend out the edges into the socket. All done using natural 10.
Colour Atelier Eyeshadow IR911 used to highlight inner corner, inner half of lower lashline and browbone -- applied using natural 12.
Liquid Eyeliner Pen for thin flicked line; Drawing Pencil M Black 01 to rim both waterlines.
Lashes curled with the legendary Shu eyelash curler and two coats of Ultimate Expression Mascara applied first to the topside of the lashes, then from underneath.
H9 Brow Pencil Seal Brown used to define brows -- she chose this to harmonise with the warm tones in the palette but recommended Stone Grey for cooler or neutral looks.

Radically different placements to balance out my very asymmetrical eyes

Monday, 21 November 2011

Sonia Rykiel Sublime Lipstick swatches part 1

Finally, a Japanese brand that a) makes only one line of lipsticks and b) did not saddle it with a fifty-syllable name.

Sonia Rykiel Sublime Lipsticks are balmy, lightweight, rose-scented and moisturising beauties which layer effortlessly to give a more opaque (but still glossy and somewhat translucent) look. They last surprisingly long (at least 4 hours of wear) and the brighter/darker shades leave a stain. Think of them as Dior Addicts but with actual moisturising properties, much smoother textures and better pigment.

The narrow design of the bullet makes mirror-less, straight-from-the-tube application easy, even for a lipbrush fiend like me.

30 permanent shades; each tube contains 4g and retails for HK$180 or ¥3465.

All swatches are two swipes each, pictures taken in bright store lighting. Some shades are shot through with microshimmer, which I've asterisked below.














closer looks


1* neutral orange
2 cool cherry pink-red
3 bright neutral pink
4 cool pink with slightly more purple in the base than 5
5* slightly lighter than 4, with silvery micro-shimmer
6* neutral soft pink
7 warm pinky coral


6 and 7 again
9 cool rosy peach
10* warm peachy pink (with the emphasis on pink)
12 browned rose
13* browned rose with micro-shimmer, warmer and with more red than 12
14 pinky peach (with the emphasis on peach), warmer and brighter than 7 or 9