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Monday, 30 July 2012

Playing with Fire #1 and #2

Shiseido Luminising Satin Trio OR302 Fire, that is. Being the sixth purchase of twelve (and one of the three I kinda sorta regret, so not sure this project can be called a success so far, rethinking needed....)

Anyway, although I can't explain Shiseido's Fire trio better than its creator, Dick Page, does himself:

I did try to capture something of the complexity of its not-so-black and white in swatches:
Appropriately enough, these shades constantly change depending on lighting and there's a warmth (orange-red-gold shimmer in the soot; opalescent pink-peach sheen in the ash) tying both into the main orange shade.

Which I've compared with some other oranges:
orange eyeshadow swatches Sugarpill Flamepoint Shiseido Fire Fyrinnae Electro-Koi, Shu Uemura G Orange 251, Catrice Dalai Drama, Suqqu Komorebi
Sugarpill Flamepoint is the truest and brightest of the bunch -- next to it the warm terracotta note in the Shiseido shade becomes obvious. Fyrinnae Electro-Koi is most similar to the Shiseido -- it's a more sparkly, reddened and slightly more neutral version. Shu Uemura G Orange 251 is the pinkiest, blingiest and most complex -- for once I'm not afraid to play favourites: this one ROCKS. Catrice Dalai Drama and the orange from Suqqu Komorebi are here as examples of the kinds of clear, shimmery oranges I usually find easiest to wear.

The Shiseido orange is not the kind of orange I find easy. In general I tend to be more daring with eye colours (especially accent shades set among neutrals -- pretty much infinite leeway) so the next set of swatches, including lip and cheek shades, provides a clearer illustration of just how much warmer and more muted this shade is compared to my usual palette:
YSL Glossy Stain #9 Rouge Laque is a bright true orange-red and Illamasqua Lover was my idea  of a perfect neutral pinkless peach -- both of these look corally next to the Shiseido. The actual corals (Ellis Faas L307, Hourglass Muse and Rouge Bunny Rouge Fire-Tailed Sunbird) pull straight-up pink.

All this preamble to establish that I find this trio hard to wear and near-impossible to pair with other things. So the first look I'm posting is actually the 5th? 6th? one I've worn, which is not my usually bloggy métier [wear the makeups, snap the makeups, post the makeups, drivel done] but can, if you squint, be made to seem vaguely topical w.r.t. latest Olympic flame cock-up. Hey, mocking-because-we-care passes for civic pride in my bit of London :P

Look 1
Soot used along lashline to create elongated shape, orange in the centre of the lid/lower lashline to balance it out with roundedness, opalescent ash on the inner and outer  thirds of lid, framing the orange.


Paired with Shiseido Luminising Satin Eye Colour PK305 Peony worn as blush, Guerlain Rouge G Girly on lip. Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory foundation as a near-flawless, distraction-free matte setting for the colour clash, and slightly fuller-than-usual brows to stop the brights from overwhelming my weebly features:


Look 2
Pale ash worn as a wash all over lid with soot to darker outer corner, blended up; orange in the socket, faded inwards. Ash+orange mixed and drawn along lower lashline.


With one sheer layer of Addiction Vamp lipstick over Jack Black lipbalm (so that it acts more as a colour here rather than a stylised black) and Rouge Bunny Rouge Delicata blush as a unobtrusive neutral. Slightly more naturalistic skin to offset the too-much-trend-in-one-look potential, with Lunasol Water Cream OC-01 foundation.

Constants: Lancome Hypnose Drama WP mascara, Burberry Concealer 01 under eyes, Suqqu Powder Eyebrow 02 Kuchibairo.

39 comments:

  1. I think you did a great job in making a really tricky colour combo work! I especially LOVE the first look and I'm going to to see if I can replicate it (confession: I bought the Fire trio almost immediately after seeing your pics on MUA.). The orange in this trio is really intimidating (I don't wear yellow or orange next to or on my face EVER) but after blending it out it was quite acceptable. It's definitely not a palette I'll use often, but I'm going to keep it because it's unique and it really does remind me of a camp fire. :) I'm hoping to wear it more often in winter when the black turtlenecks and dresses come out. >)

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    1. Thank you <3
      The uniqueness is exactly what makes me want to keep it -- but then is it unique to my stash for a good reason? etc. etc. *head explodes*
      I can see the orange being beautiful on a white-snowy day

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  2. I'm somehow relieved to see you struggle with the pairings of that orange. Even the much milder orange in the Estee Lauder Topaz Mosaic quint gave me similar trouble this spring. I always overly-internalize these things.

    That said, I really like the last look. I wonder if you won't be more pleased with it yourself once the weather gets more autumnal. Even a pretty vamp doesn't exactly scream "Summer!"

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    1. In some ways I think a milder orange can be trickier because it sits closer to neutral so you feel it should behave like one. I find the more obnoxious Sugarpill shade easier to work with than the Shi.

      A good pt re autumn however -- I have lots of murky 70s knits planned and this rust would fit right in.

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    2. perhaps you should try using the lightest color towards your inner corner/under brow bone, and use the orange as an allover wash with the black in the outer v--and blend blend blend. use the lightest color to soften the contrast between the orange and the black. seriously. it sounds crazy, but it blends out into a very warm smokey eye.

      -- former shiseido beauty consultant

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  3. This post is so perfectly timed for me!!! I just got back from a camping trip, and all I could think about as I stared into the campfire was how to translate what I saw into iterations using Shi Fire. I was even calling it "Playing with Fire" in my head. Great minds, eh?

    Both versions are fab, and not too similar. Whenever I wear this trio I usually end up with an orange outer corner, shimmery grey inner, and the smokey charcoal smudged around the lashline.

    - Alex

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    1. <3 I'm jealous of your mind working like Dick Page's

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  4. I really really like Look 1, I want to try. Gah you are making me want the palette.

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    1. Jaqueline, I challenge you to do that look with shadows you already own! :D

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    2. I will so pick up this challenge after I'm done with my busy stuff, you are on!

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  5. Agree with Jacqueline! The look 1 looks awesome! Shiseido's texture is mostly amazing.

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    1. thank you! I love the Shi textures (how they feel), but struggle with the uniform finish (how they look) sometimes...

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  6. I really love Illamasqua Lover, it's such a great everyday cheek color! :)I really love look #2, I love the dramatic lips!

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    1. it is amazingly versatile, and my favourite with a red lip!

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  7. I'm sorry to read you're not super liking this, because I do and I find it super wearable. It may have to deal with the fact that I'm medium olive toned. That orange can merge with my natural eyelid tone (which is a bit darker than my entire face). Unfortunately, I don't have my camera with me at the moment -it went to D.C. to look for my Shi Lip Lacquers- but I'll try to post some other ideas with it. Anyway, I really loved how you look with #1.
    Hugs!

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    1. hehe, I can't wait :) And for those lacquer reviews too!

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  8. you have such a gorgeous face & complexion for so many makeup-looks.

    That Guerlain Girly is massively gorgeous...need to check it out but the frugal SA in the Netherlands these days don't even give me one measly sample even after buying that Guerlain Rouge for 25 euros...cheapskates, going to swatch instore and order online for secure pick of freebies

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    1. you have such a way of making me blush like my face is on FIRE :P

      And yes, you need to try Girly -- it's the only Rouge G I've kept despite burning hatred for the packaging.

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  9. I'm speechless.
    (And, seeing this in my google reader through a million other things, before I realized what it was, I was jumping in my couch and saying OMG I need those eyshadows!! Silly me, lol :) )

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    1. well you've made me lemm stuff I already had before! lol

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  10. I just had a dream about this trio last night. The universe is telling me something!

    And now I need Girly, too.

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    1. Duckyyy! <3 You would rock this! And all the bright lips, duh

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  11. I like with what you did with the Shiseido Fire and think the looks you created are spectacular by themselves but agree that the orange doesn't go with your current palette of cheek and lip colors. But you tried!

    I like Shiseido, particularly their Shimmering Cream Eye Colors, but find their eyeshadow palette combinations a bit odd. I'm curious to know what palettes you did end up liking and which ones you regret.

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    1. Thanks for this thoughtful comment :)

      I've also had and have gotten rid/am getting rid of: Opera, Pink Sands and Bouquet. I think I could deal with the undertone clashes better if they were made more 'deliberate' with some textural variation.

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  12. ZOMG I love the first look with it. LOVE. Kate, do you think the same placement could be as flattering on my eye shape? I'm dying to try it now and see!

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    1. TRY EEET! And yes, I think it would be flattering on almost everyone -- it's basically the middle-of-eyelid highlight thing but tweaked to use a bold contrasting shade instead.

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  13. Total thumbs up for the first look:)
    I think you did a fantastic job with 'Fire'. The orange opens & highlights your eyes beautifully!!

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    1. Thanks! I think I shall post a version of the placement with more easy-to-wear shades for me, for Science. ;)

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  14. both looks are beautiful, I especially love Guerlain Rouge G Girly lipstick, it's gorgeous on you ( and yet something else to add to the wishlist)

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    1. it's actually really unusual (neutral-undertoned) for such an uber-bright candy pink, you must try it at least

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  15. How'd you get so pretty? I just want to *squish* you!
    I'm loving the first look, I think for me it's the color contrast, the eyeshadow placement* and how well it's sitting with the warmth in your hair (cute cut!)

    *I'm going to try this placement, I think it might work for my eyes too. I like the idea of balancing the lengthening eyeliner with a rounded color placement on the lid (and lower lashline).

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    1. *clings*
      I love your eye (metaphorically) and so glad you liked this and noticed <3

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  16. I think Fire is lovely on you, though I prefer the first look cuz it's just so pretty. I actually want to get Fire for that orange only (not so interested in the other two).

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    1. hah, I admittedly justified the orange because I knew the other 2 would be good solid neutrals

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  17. Goodness you have some lovely, long lashes! And I was going to say that the bright pink lip was hands down my favorite...until I kept scrolling and saw that beautiful vampy lip. You pull off both with ease--I'm jealous! :P

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    1. <3 thank you so much for your lovely words!

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  18. Love the orange eyeshadow...it's got that slight burnt look to it like copper but not quite. On a totally unrelated note, you have such beautiful eyebrows!

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    1. Burnt is exactly it! It's such a CLEVER trio of colours.

      Thank you so much for the compliment, I'm trying to improve my brow-fu ;)

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  19. Kate!!! You can do no wrong woman :D Stunning looks as always. Now I need this trio in my life :DDD

    God save the queen and my bank account!!

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