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Friday, 20 July 2012

Red & Blue with Addiction & THREE

The blue in question is THREE Flash Performance Liner 04 Eye Belong (original swatch); here's how it sits against some other blurple liners I own:
THREE Flash Performance Liner 04 Eye Belong swatch comparison GOSH Love that Purple, Purple Stain, RBR Vera
GOSH Waterproof Eyeshadow Love that Purple is a creamy, twist-up eyeshadow/liner a la By Terry / Topshop and Laura Mercier. It's the truest purple of the bunch, with a smooth texture and an ultra-fine sparse pink microshimmery sheen that makes is look warmer in the shade (bottom pic). 
Purple Stain is another GOSH shade, from their Velvet Touch eyeliner range. Are you can see, it's rather uneven and tends to separate into orchid base and bluer sheen. (This shade is not representative of the Velvet Touches, which are generally excellent: smoothly pigmented, blendable and long-lasting.)
THREE Eye Belong is a platonic complex blurple satin base with cornflower, pink and cool gold shimmer; it manages to be at once the smoothest/creamiest and most texturally interesting and most uniformly pigmented.
As the shaded (bottom) picture shows, Rouge Bunny Rouge Vera Eye Kohl (earlier swatch) shares a blackened base with Eye Belong, but precious little else. Although it has a definite purple iris tone and subtle metallic sheen, next to Eye Belong Vera looks almost like a flat navy. Oooold readers may remember that this kohl was the one that converted me to all pencil liners late last year; it's always a bit sad when a new favourite supplants a reigning one but I have to say the otherworldly THREE texture makes the RBR kohl feel almost dry in contrast. (However, unlike the shimmery THREE, Vera is waterline safe, and it definitely retains a place in my stash and my heart.)

It turned out the closest thing in my collection to Eye Belong is Fyrinnae Shinigami, except that Eye Belong looks even more complex (those who are familiar with Fyrinnae sparklies will know just how radical that is) because it adds pale gold to the mix of pink and blue glitter, and because the glitter stands out more from the base (again, not in a way you can feel -- no grittiness here):
Although Shinigami isn't one of Fyrinnae's Arcane Magic shades, it still shifts significantly depending on lighting conditions: in the bottom picture (warm afternoon sunlight) its warmth is more apparent in contrast to Eye Belong.


Next, reds, both from Addiction's C (colour) Lipstick range: Last Scene (soft, warm but still somewhat clear) and Monroe Walk (bright, clear, slightly cooler than neutral):
Addiction lipstick swatch Last Scene Monroe Walk reds
(Despite the bright glossifying lighting in this picture, in reality both are satin-matte.)

Some comparisons, mainly with Lancôme Colour Design Matte lipsticks, my former favourite matte formula:
red lipstick swatches Addiction Monroe Walk Lancome Corset Red Haute Suqqu Karakurenai
Addiction Monroe Walk is closest to Lancôme Red Haute but it's brighter and slightly less cool: its pinky undertone is a slightly warmer, more coral version, and has affinities too with Lancôme's Corset, which is warmer still and more rosily muted. Suqqu Creamy Glow Karakurenai is closest to my idea of the perfect neutral red, so swatched for reference, to show up the brightness and pinkness of the other three.

red lipstick swatches Addiction Last Scene, RMS Rapture, Lancome Red Addiction, Revlon Fire and Ice
I don't own as many warm reds as I do cool, but hopefully enough to show that Lancôme Red Addiction is warmer and deeper (both in tone and saturation) than Addiction Last Scene. RMS Rapture is darker, warmer and browner still, for those 90s cravings, while Revlon's classic Fire & Ice is warmer (orange) but also lighter and pop-brighter.
(also, red swatches from this Feburary, which included Last Scene)

There are a few minor ways in which the Addiction mattes edge out the Lancôme ones for me: absolutely weightless, the Addictions hug the lips uniquely, adding pure pigment without texture, and also last longer, eventually fading perfectly evenly. They are really more like stain/lipstick hybrids, whereas Lancôme CDM's, while wonderful, are more like conventional lipsticks, with the usual tricks of silicone-suspended pigment which allow a smoother initial application, but which do not set and stain, or feel undetectable.
The single major way in which the Addictions win out for me is their versatility. The Lancômes are so smoothly pigmented they are actually very tricky to sheer out while still looking pretty (i.e. not patchy), but the unique weightless Addiction texture makes it a snap to adjust the opacity.

Monroe Walk applied as a sheer stain, then built up to full

ditto, Last Scene

Even at its most opaque, Last Scene retains a softness that makes it unique to my collection; I tend to wear in combination with softer eyeshadow colours (as in this older look) or hazy placements, e.g. with THREE Eye Belong blended all over the lid and then a second layer smudged along the lashes:
sorry, skin was a bit spotty/dull for a while post-flight
A slightly more vivid take, keeping the THREE pencil closer to the lashline, though still smoked out a little. Also, although I applied Last Scene with a lipbrush, I did use a finger tip to soften the edges just a little.
Also added RBR Sea of Clouds highlighter to bring up the dewy brightness

Conversely, Monroe Walk somehow retains a vivid, optimistic brightness even worn as a matte stain. A retro precise-yet-rounded shape seemed obvious but hey, I like obvious, especially paired with a slightly dropped wing (again with Eye Belong: it's versatile, capiche?)
Shu Pink/Purple Mousse for that glowy-matte finish. Burberry Earthy to fake that classical beauty bone structure :P 

Eye close-up: very naturalistic contouring with the opalescent grey from Shiseido Fire over lid, RBR Bohemian Waxwing in socket, and GOSH white kohl for a very clean lower lashline.

35 comments:

  1. Thank you very much for this review, Kate! I've been eyeing Monroe Walk and this pretty much cements my decision. :) Love your creativity and polished looks as always.

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    1. p.s. Roxina/Alysia here :D

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    2. :* glad to help, my dear
      I know you're a fan of unusual textures, and these lipsticks really are unique

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  2. Very nice. I love Last Scene. Love! Which does not help me at all. Somewhat alarmed at the rate of accumulation over the last few months, I decided to only order one package a month for the rest of the year. Now I find myself on the horns of an Addiction/Rouge Bunny Rouge/new liquid lipsticks dilemma.

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    1. Last Scene does seem awfully perfect for last summer shading into autumn.... ahem. I am calculating how many of my remaining 12/12 ration could legitimately go on ALL THE NEW liquid lipsticks.

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  3. Ummm, can I recant my previous opinion of Last Scene? It is lovely on second look. *sheepish grin* I do love Monroe Walk and Suqqu #18 better still. In any case, you slay me with your looks every time! Bravo.

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    1. :D It was a highly artificial bare-faced look that you nixed, and one that I'd never wear tbh. What am I, FRENCH?! ;)

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  4. Red lipsticks! My favourite! I would kill to own you red lippie collection. You should wear red lipstick everyday you look so good in them. I prefer warm reds and Rapture and Red Addiction look so good. The blurple swatches are to die for. So stunning.

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    1. haha I love you! Reds are my instinctive choice tbh, for lips and cheeks XD I have to make a conscious effort to wear a pretty peachy pink

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    2. Pretty peach pinks are for girls, red are for women! :)

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  5. Eye Belong is seriously gorgeous!! You are so beautiful Kate!

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    1. thank you aly :* The pencil is beautifuller

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  6. Hurrah - thank you for doing this :). Obviously I have added Vera back onto my shopping list to accompany Eye Belong...

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    1. I can't wait to see either/both on you! Vera would be killer on your colouring :)

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  7. You look absolutely stunning! I love the combination of the sparkly purple liner and the red lip! I haven't tried any ADDICTION lipsticks yet (I prefer pinks and their range doesn't seem to have as many) or THREE but I'm definitely looking a lot closer now.

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    1. Thank you! :D
      I'd love to hear your thoughts on THREE lipsticks if you ever try those. I don't remember much about them from my Japan trip last year but everything was a bit of a blur -- they definitely seemed to have a wider range (with more pinks) than Addiction though.

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  8. milktea said... Love the THREE Eye Belong around the eyes in your first EOTD pix (the one with the grey sweater)! Beautiful! :)

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    1. Thank you! :) It is awful, I was trying to eke out the ridiculously expensive pencil by blending blending blending, lol

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  9. *adds Monroe Walk to shopping list* Lovely as always.

    Y from Worship at the House of Blues is going to Japan in a few months and has offered to shop for me. I need to whittle a list as long as my ARM into something manageable. Did you happen to look at any of the Addiction Lady of the Lake please? Any chance of a post on it? *cheeky smile*

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    1. :D cheek away.
      Reviews/swatches next week hopefully, now that we have this thing called natural light.

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  10. hehe, I love the "platonic" part of the "platonic complex blurple satin base with cornflower, pink and cool gold shimmer" but I'm really stunned by the multicomplexidy of the Eye Belong.

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    1. it was the word 'platonic' or a rambly 15-minute ode to the wonders of etc. ;)

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  11. Wow! I really want Last Scene now - the texture makes it looks so natural on you!

    - Alex

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    1. These really hug the lips like no other; it's very difficult for me to get that beautiful stained look without blotting (which usually dries my lips out too much)

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  12. Dangit. I want everything if it comes with that face. *_*

    And wow, the THREE liner. Must. Get.

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  13. Kate - I'm totally loving Last Scene!
    Makeup confession time – I don't actually have a proper red lipstick!
    I mean one that actually looks red on me – everything pulls pink. (Though I'm still kinda afraid of red, so I haven't looked that far.)

    Do you think I'd get along with Last Scene? I'm wondering if the softness you've described could make it more user-friendly for me … but I also don't want to pick a red that fails to actually look red on my lips.

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    1. I think Last Scene is one of the least pink-pulley reds I've ever tried (I pull things pink too). The softness is absolutely wonderful and is what makes its warmth wearable for me too :)

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    2. OK, that's so going on the wishlist :D

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  14. I thought that "Eye Belong" was so lovely that I tried to find it online. When I did, I tried to do the dollar/yen conversion and found that it's around $55! Is this correct??? I thought the By Terry eye pencils were expensive!

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    1. 3150 YEN is the Japanese retail which works out to around $40. Unfortunately without a Japanese friend you are at the mercy of online retailers with their crazy mark-ups :(

      I wish an international niche retailer like zuneta would pick this brand (and Addiction) up.

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  15. Wowza. These two are gorgeous, and your comments about texture are so helpful. I will continue to tell myself that I don't need more red lippies *rocking in corner*.

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    1. *banishes* I'll have none of that blasphemy here!

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  16. Where does one buy Addiction brand at? I couldn't find it with a google search. Thanks!

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    1. It depends where you are, Andrea. Addiction is only sold in Japan physically, but there are etailers who ship internationally albeit at a painful markup: ichibankao.com is popular. If you can read Japanese and navigate Japanese sites you can also use a mail forwarding service like fromjapan.co.jp

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