Saturday, 8 September 2012

Suqqu EX-07 Tsukiakari Forwards, Backwards and Sideways

Hullo sky! Hullo birds! &c. Oh yes, I am on holiday at last :D Which hopefully means I'll be spamming you all more regularly with the enormous hoard of pics on my hard-drive.

First up, a new thing which-I-am-not-sure-is-a-great-idea-but-people-asked-people-as-in-more-than-one-person-even: a pictorial step-by-step of one of my typical vertical-gradation eye looks using Suqqu's new, limited edition EX-07 Tsukiakari quad for autumn (previously swatched). Srsly, it is actually embarrassing how basic this is / how unskilled I am; you can probably extrapolate from this to unlock the sekrits of all my other makeup :P

The Quad In Question

The Look
1. Swept the white powder primer (bottom right pan) all over up to brow

2. With a dense flat brush (I used Shu Uemura Synthetic 10), patted the navy cream (bottom left) over the mobile lid, feathering outwards at the very edges. [Don't worry about making it perfectly neat; it is just fine if it looks a patchy mess in close-up :P] Took it under the lower lashline with the edge of the same brush, from outer corner fading inwards.

3. With a dense-but-fluffy brush (I used Suqqu Eyeshadow M, but a flatter brush like MAC 239, Shu Natural 10 etc. works too), patted the plum taupe (top right pan) over and slightly beyond the navy base and swept to blend lightly at edges. Layered it over the navy cream on the lower lashline.

4. With a fluffy blender (I used Suqqu Eyeshadow L, other possibilities: MAC 217 or 224, Stila 9, Nars 14 etc.), lightly blended the peachy pink (top left) over and beyond the edges of the plum taupe into the socket and inner corner.

5. With the remains of the peachy pink on the same fluffy brush, blended out any harsh lines separating the shades [I wanted a very soft, hazy look]. Dusted off brush, then used it to pick up more of the powder primer to help adjust/clean up the shape -- I changed my mind at this point from the elongated shape I'd laid down to wanting a more rounded one, so pulled the outer corner in and up.

6. Used a liner brush (I used Chikuhodo Artist 6-1 cf. MAC 231, Hakuhodo 005 etc.) and the navy cream again to make a thickish line following and extending straight out from the natural shape of my eye. Also to rim lower waterline and line outer 1/3 of lower lashline.

7. Mascara (Lancome Hypnôse Drama WP) and done.

With the left side of Suqqu EX-02 Mizumomo blush and Beauté Fever stain on lips, topped with balm.
Base: Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Clouds to highlight, Becca compact concealer Meringue on blemishes and Burberry pen concealer 01 under eyes. BCL Browlash EX Water Strong W Eyebrow Pencil Natural Brown on brows.

Better angle for the blush

The Look, Backwards
I think of looks like this as a smokey-eye-with-colours: it smokes outwards from the lashline. The more traditional way of doing this kind of vertical gradation of eyeshadow goes from light to dark, towards the lashline but creates a similarly flattering smokey effect. I really don't have a preference for either method (sometimes I will start with the midtone shade), so it depends more on the kind of effect you want to achieve with the particular shades you're working with.

Going from light to dark with this particular Suqqu palette creates a lighter and warmer pink/red look without the navy sludging things up as a base. I kept the brushes and overal shape consistent with the first look. For Science.

1. Again I applied the white primer base all over my eye. Then the peachy pink all over the mobile lid into the socket with Suqqu Eyeshadow L brush.

2. The plum taupe on a denser brush (Suqqu Eyeshadow M) over lid and crease, leaving a halo of the peachy-pink untouched.

3. Navy to line (Chikuhodo Artist 6-1). Turned out a little more winged out than the day before. oops. 

4. Lower lashline is pretty much the same as the day before's but with the addition of the pinky peach layered over the two darker shades.

Blush is Suqqu EX-02 Mizumomo again (this time I mixed both shades for a lighter and softer pink) but to echo the eye I went with Addiction Lady of the Lake on the lips, a deeper, richer wine than the red before.
Same base, but RBR Sea of Tranquility (opal pink) replacing Clouds (white).

The Palette, Sideways
or, y'know, comparison swatches.
The peachy pink from EX-07 Tsukiakari is very close to (maybe a hair lighter than) the pink in Suqqu's 08 Mizuaoi quad: both are pinker and cooler (and less sparkly) than Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Abstraction. What my swatch doesn't show is that the Tsukiakari shade is much more pigmented and less delicately sparkly than the Mizuaoi one (which is layered here twice).

Tsukiakari's plum taupe is most similar to ME Medium Plum 761 from Shu Uemura, but it is sheerer and has a much more melty-buttery texture and less of a metallic sheen. The darker side of Paul&Joe Eye Gloss Duo 4 Bourgeoisie is more metallic yet, and is much cooler -- more of a straight taupe with only a hint of mauve reflect. Rouge Bunny Rouge Delicate Hummingbird looks extremely grurple alongside these, but reads as a dusty taupe against proper jewelled purples [I had a reason to swatch it, honest]. 

The navy cream turned out to be quite tricky to 'dupe' exactly, considering my fondness for this shade. Its grey-blue base makes it look brighter and clearer than both Rouge Bunny Rouge Vera kohl (with which it shares a little violetiness) and KATE BU-1 gel liner (which looks almost tealish in consequence). The micro-sparkle in the Suqqu lighten it further -- making it both brightening and defining as a liner.


  1. Gorgeous! And that second lippie is TDF!

    1. Thanks, Lou :) I'd waited about a year for this lipstick!

  2. Kate, I find this post very useful, I'm always interested to find out how others apply their eye makeup so thanks for sharing. You are making your Suqqu palette awefully lust worthy to me.

    1. Thanks! I love the way you elongate your eyes with makeup ;)

  3. hi kate,
    thanks for the lovely looks and tutorial!
    may i know which items you found worth buying from this collection?
    only the 2 items you mentioned? did you get blush ex01, the 'fleshy' one?

    1. Hey Eunice, I just picked up these two items. The other blush is a little too nude for my tastes -- one nude (RBR Delicata) is enough :) I obviously need at least six pinks though...

  4. this is so helpful, Kate! :)

  5. Wow those are gorgeous looks! I need this palette! I have no idea where the best place to get Suqqu from to Canada.


    1. No more drunk commenting for you, missy! ;)

  7. Hi Kate!

    I find you so useful. :)

    How does the blue cream stand up, wear-wise? I love the look, but I'm hesitating on plunking down money (my only way is ichibankao...grrr) if the cream is going to need touchups all the time/run all over the place as a liner.

    What do you think?

    1. Hi Megan! Thank you :D

      I have v. dry skin and don't really experience creasing / running but according to some oilier-lidded friends the Suqqu powder primer is one of the best at keeping eyeshadow in place, including this cream.
      If you usually need an eyeshadow primer, you might want to pop that under everything as usual.

      The cream is spreadable but it's not extremely emollient/slippy so I don't think it would be a huge mess.

    2. Oh, be still my pocketbookl. Because that cream is gorgeous.

      Thank you!

  8. Ohhhh, gorgeous!

    Thank you for this perfect tutorial...your descriptions and photos are so detailed and very helpful!

    Wanted to know your experience in general with cream eyeshadows in a palette like this. Do they tend to dry out pretty a few months....a year?

    1. Thank you so much! I ran out of steam a bit in the second half of the post, lol

      The only other creams-in-palettes I have are from Becca and Maquillage. Some are three years old and still going strong -- the Suqqu cream seems similar to Maquillage in texture so I think it will age as well.

    2. Kate, thank you for taking the time to personally share your experience. So generous of you and I truly appreciate!

      I wanted to respond in kind by letting your readers know that they can save a bit on Suqqu by purchasing at if the only option they have is Ichibankao. I am not affiliated with this US company but have been pleased with excellent service...which of course, Ichibankao also has.

      Imomoko doesn't carry the full range of products but does have latest release Suqqu eyeshadows and blushes. It seems they announce free international shipping a couple times a month with minimum purchase so an eyeshadow palette is $103 instead of $112 at Ichibankao. Not a huge difference but a savings nontheless :) Sales and coupons have also made this site a recent favorite.

      I haven't seen Imomoko mentioned in your blog and I know that a number of readers have lamented the high prices on Ichibankao so thought I would share where I get my Suqqu fix.

  9. This palette is amazing! Have you considered not lining under the eye?

    1. I skip it v rarely, as with my hooded eyes the lower lashline is one of the easiest bits of canvas to have fun on. With these looks I felt it would be unbalanced to skip :)

    2. Fair enough! I just love a heavy upper lashline on a hooded eye, it reminds me of Brigitte Bardot!

  10. Tawna [mac222@MUA]9 September 2012 at 21:54

    Two lovely looks and an excellent post. I have not seen this type of "gradation" application technique demonstrated, though I am sure I have viewed its end result in many magazines & photo layouts. I always thought that when using a quad or palette each color was to be used individually and blended at the edge into the other [separate] colors...this has opened my eyes [no pun intended!] to new ways of combining eye shadows and shades, especially in my many unused trios, quads & palettes....Thank you ever so much!

  11. OMG, I lem that Suqqu quad BADLY now. D:

  12. I love your blog. You're witty, it's fun to read.
    I'd like to have a friend like you. Too bad you don't live in Zurich:)