Pages

Friday, 27 April 2012

Pictorial: Pressing Fyrinnae Loose Eyeshadows

O hai world! I'm posting from Hong Kong once again so expect more Asian makeup swatches and magaziney ramblings for the next few months :) Feel free to email requests for products you'd like to see swatched / compared / reviewed to the usual address.

As there's nothing like needing to pack for a suddenly-impending three-month trip to whip the random-venture subset of my procrastination skillset (o yes) into shape, I present the sparkly, sparkly fruits of my last makeuppy project -- pressing all the Fyrinnae minis!


This is the first time I've repressed anything (yeah, yeah) and I'm indebted to two excellent tutorials in particular: Kristina's from Sasquatch Swatch and makeupalley's Pressing Minerals notepad. The real lightbulb moment was when I realised the process was very like making scones and therefore nothing to be scared of.

Since those tutes (and any googleable scones recipe) will tell you all you need to know, this post isn't strictly a pictorial so much as a 'here's what I did and it seemed to work fine', but hopefully it will be helpful to those newer to Fyrinnae (whose samples are much smaller now than they seem to have been a few years back) and to fellow non-US-residents without such easy access to commercial mixing mediums and tools.

TOOLS
Pure Glycerin and Surgical Spirit (90% pure alcohol) -- both to be found for under £2 near the first aid sections of Boots in the UK. (Sorry they're so grubby -- blackened Fyrs are tenacious.)
  1. Kitchen towel / paper for pressing
  2. Glass pipette (for alcohol -- I used the top from an empty dropper bottle)
  3. Plastic pipette (for glycerin -- you can use glass too, I just had this lying around)
  4. Aluminium 26mm pan from ebay (opt for aluminium as tin can rust) and 10p piece for pressing
  5. Tin 15mm pan from Yaby (which I bought before reading about the rust thing...) and 5p piece for pressing (which is slightly too large, so I used my pinky finger for less-filled pans)
  6. Toothpicks for mixing (I found these much better than spatulas or whatnot for such small amounts)
  7. Labels!
  8. Pen!
  9. Fyrinnae minis!
  10. (not pictured) Ethanol fumes!




PROCESS
1. Drop a tiny bit of glycerin into a Fyrinnae mini (straight into the pot was fine as they don't fill it with as much sparkly as they used to :/). Start off slow because you can add but you can't take away. This is about the right amount for a sample of a regular Fyrinnae shade (halve it for an Arcane Magick sample).

2. With a toothpick, mix evenly to the consistency of breadcrumbs (think scones after rubbing the butter+flour together) or slightly clumpy wet sand. There may be a slight colour change depending on the finish / shade of eyeshadow, it's no big deal. (Minimal spillage entirely due to me giggling at Season 2 of Community whilst doing this, not because the pot was too small.)

3. Add alcohol a few drops at a time, mixing until the pigment starts pulling away from the pot in a solid 'dough'. Unlike the glycerine stage, it's no big deal if you accidentally add too much -- the alcohol's all going to evaporate off anyway; too much will just mean a longer drying time. This is a bit too much alcohol for a regular sample:

This is how it looks when it's just starting to pull away / form a dough ball. The ideal is to end up with a perfectly unified ball that's picked up all the pigment naturally leaving the pot entirely clean -- think baking again. And again, don't worry about the colour change at this stage.

4. Scoop out the mixture with your mixing toothpick and squidge it into your pan more or less evenly. If making duos or trios, it's helpful to have a mixture that's a little drier (has less alcohol) and (like playdoh) more manipulable. Some pots contain more than others so it's best not to have too rigid an idea of exactly which shades you want as a duo/trio -- they may not all fit into one pan. This probably isn't an OCD-tendencies-friendly activity anyway :P Check out those polluted boundaries!

5. Place a sheet of kitchen towel over the top and gently press until you can see a pan-sized circle of alcohol soaking through.
I prefer to use my fingers to lightly press from the edges of the pan inwards -- going straight in with a coin and a vertical press can make the mixtures ooze out over the edges. And unlike making scones, it's not a lickable treat >:C

6. After a few passes, moving to a clean spot on the kitchen towel each time, when the paper stops picking up much alcohol with a gentle finger-press, you can start pressing more firmly with a coin on top; a 10p piece is just slightly smaller than a 26mm pan and works well. Feel free to do fake push-ups with a pan under each hand. A 5p piece was too big for my tiny Yaby 15mm pans, so I mostly skipped coin-pressing for those and just left them a bit longer to dry out.

Repeat until the paper stops picking up much alcohol even with a coin on top (from bottom left, the start of coin-pressing, to bottom right, the end, or, when I got bored.)

7. Pan! Ready to be labelled and then left alone to dry for 24-48 hours.

8. Bask in the glow of ethanol-sniffing and glitter-snorting achievement, in both natural light






...and with flash
10. Marvel at all the space you've saved! Hmm, the ex-pigment-drawer seems to be calling for a rainbow of coloured eyeliners.... hey, I don't make the rules.

Sunday, 22 April 2012

Peach Bunny Pink

This Friday, zuneta will be launching six new iridescent shades of eyeshadow from Rouge Bunny Rouge.

So it seemed a good time to update my previous series of RBR swatches with some recent acquisitions, two peaches (Sleeping Under a Mandarin Tree pigment and Fire-Tailed Sunbird eyeshadow) and a pink (Eaten All The Cherries pigment).

(I suspect Friday will also seem a good time to throw all thoughts of twelve-buy out of the window, especially as I'll be amidst the temptations of Japanese summer collections by then...)
Did you like my segue?

Anyway, peachy pinky product collage

And comparison swatches from left to right:

Suqqu quad 11 Himesango peachy pink shade
Fyrinnae Rapunzel Had Extensions, a cult pink-gold duochrome
RBR Eaten All the Cherries, a much cooler pink/gold duochrome which looks almost silvery next to Rapunzel
RBR Sleeping Underneath a Mandarin Tree, which shifts from lemon to delicate marigold
RBR Fire-Tailed Sunbird, perfectly described by RBR as "holographic iridescent apricot pink" 
RBR Angelic Cockatiels, honeyed golden peach
Paul&Joe Eye Gloss Duo Depth (LE) peach side
Suqqu quad 01 Kakitsubata peach shade

Natural light


Full sun

It probably goes without saying that I'm besotted with all of these -- I don't think I've tried a single RBR eyeshadow I haven't cared for (lip and cheek colours were trickier).

I used Sleeping Under a Mandarin Tree for my St Paddy's FOTD and will soon post a look with Fire-Tailed Sunbird, which is supremely delicate in the style of Resplendant Quetzal, the perfect soft brights. On a darker skintone, they tend to pastel, as Makeup Picnic's swatches show.

In the meantime, here's a quick 'n' messy on-eye comparison of Eaten All the Cherries (LEFT) with Fyrinnae's Rapunzel (RIGHT), which shows hopefully some of the duochrome flash, and also how much more refined the RBR shimmer is compared to the reflective metallic foil of Fyr.

Pictures in artificial light with flash, no primer/base