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Friday, 31 August 2012

Suqqu Autumn 2012 Collection Swatches

Suqqu's latest collection has finally landed in the UK and as the half-arsed title suggests ('Pink', really?) this is another collection that's unified more by textures than by colour-story.

(As always with Suqqu, the EX- prefix means the item is limited edition.)

The shiniest of new shinies are the three eyeshadow palettes (£45) which for the first time, contain a cream pan -- pigmented enough to use as liner, blendable enough to work as a base. The bottom right pan is Suqqu's usual powder primer base (this goes under the cream even if you are using that all over the eye). The two top pans are both richly pigmented dimensional shimmers of a very similar feel to the top right pan from the quints released this spring. It's a typically thoughtful departure from Suqqu's usual practice of having a sheerer, more sparkly shadow in the top left pan; both of these are pigmented enough to layer alone over the cream to create a radically different shade, rather than just adding a shimmery highlight.

Swatches: I skipped the powder primers and swiped the three main shades separately (powders with the included sponge tips, cream with my pinky finger) once; for the rightmost stripe, I blended out the cream over the powder primer and swept both powder shadows over it.

EX-07 Tsukiakari (月灯, moonlight) makes for a lovely murky purple/grey haze when combined or layered but worn separately the shades give an interesting warm/cool contrast, which makes this a slightly better replacement for my beloved discontinued 01 Kakitsubata than 12 Konruri.


13 Akanezora (茜空, lit. madder sky) mixes to a lovely taupe but I think it best evokes the ruddy sunsets of its name when worn in staggered layers in a rosy smokey eye. This combination of cool pink, peachy rose and yellow-brown reminds me of the recently discontinued 05 Sakurakaba quad.


14 Kosumosuiro ( 秋桜色, lit. autumn cherry-blossom) is named for the cosmos flower whose vivid blossoms are supposed to evoke the early autumnal mood just as the pink-and-white sakura herald spring. For those with richer inner lives than mine, presumably. The green/bronze/peach combo is undeniably lovely and feels very right as the nights draw in, even if their richness of tone evokes plush velvets, murky tweeds and soft wool jumpers for me, rather than anything as artless as flowers.... Suqqu's 07 Komorebi (lit. sunlight-through-trees) quad is a much more delicately bucolic take on a similar combination.



Another, more sneakily new release: two limited-edition blush duos called Gradation Cheeks (£38). All the shades are satins, significantly less shimmery than the blush duos from spring, slightly less visible shimmer than in the Shiseido powders but with more of a kick than those from Rouge Bunny Rouge or Burberry.

EX-01 Mizudaidai (瑞橙, juicy orange) is a pairing of soft warm apricot with palest peach.
[I'm trying to avoid the word 'fleshy' here but it's swirling around my brain so why not yours too.]

As requested I compared the left side of EX-01 Mizudaidai (centre) with Armani #2 (left) and Nars Douceur (R):


EX-02 Mizumomo (瑞桃, juicy peach(?!)) combines a pale pink-tinged white [not swatched as invisible on my skin -- would work as highlight on NC/W20+] with a bright, cool pink, compared here against Addiction Amazing powder and Nars Gaiety.


Finally, the five lipsticks are all in Suqqu's sheer jelly Creamy Moist Glow formula (£27). Three pretty, populist shades are permanent expansions of the line: 03 Fuyuzakura, 04 Tsuirokokemomo and 05 Usunadeshiko go from pinkest to orangiest on the warm pink-peach scale. Swatches are all 3-4 swipes layered, taken in natural light.


Of the limited edition releases, EX-05 Hanabotan is a shimmery browned rose and EX-06 Maaka a warm strawberry red -- a great one to try if you find most sheer reds pull pink/fuchsia, this is not as pink as Lipstick Queen Medieval but has less brown than Shiseido Natural Red.


The last item in this collection is a very subtly (wears as translucent on me) cool-pink-toned Chiffon Feel Loose Powder which is slightly more moisturising while giving a slightly more matte finish than the regular Nuancing Loose Powder Natural. You get 19g instead of the usual 15g for £40, and the ingredients differ only... er... slightly between the two formulations: