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Saturday, 9 March 2013

Suqqu EX-12 Hisuidama Review, Swatch and Comparison

For me, Blend Eyeshadow quad EX-12 Hisuidama (翡翠珠, jade pearlis the standout product of Suqqu's tenth anniversary "Vintage Pearl" spring collection. As with all Suqqu products, the EX- prefix indicates 'limited edition'; like the core quads, this retails for £45 in the UK.

For this collection, Suqqu has changed to frosted iridescent white casing and debuted a new pearlescent eyeshadow formula and I am a huge fan of both, because no fingerprints woot! and the new formula feels incredible, respectively. It differs from the dry, tightly-packed silk of the core quads 01-06, from the gossamer sparkle of 07/08 and from the denser, molten-creamy feel of the later metallics in quads 09 onwards; instead it is silk so smoothed and lustrous it feels almost literally fluid -- weightlessly liquid, like a dry-oil.
angled to suggest the cases' iridescence
All three spring quads: EX-11 Sumiredama, EX-12 Hisuidama, EX-13 Ginsudama

While all three quads feature the same new eyeshadow texture/formula (feel) they differ in terms of finish and pigmentation (looks). Which is why it isn't EX-11 Sumiredama (which has been making the biggest waves online) but EX-12 Hisuidama which has my heart. [More specific drivel about Sumiredama will follow in its own review post. While also shown here, I did not acquire EX-13 Ginsudama for myself -- a friend let me photograph hers.] Admittedly, skintone is a factor -- Hisuidama is likelier to please the paler/cooler, just as Ginsudama the warmer/darker, while Sumiredama is balanced in between.


Closer Look

angled to capture the duochrome/reflects
*Top left: icy blue-white pearlescent duochrome with tonal sparkle, pigmented
*Top right: soft sage shimmer with rose-gold reflect, pigmented
*Bottom left: cool brown satin base with subtle green duochrome and blue, green and pink microshimmer, pigmented
Bottom right: cool cherry-blossom pink matte base with sparse silver sparkle, medium pigmentation

The three starred shades are duochromes, but in a subtle way, much less pronounced than the blue shift in the taupe and purple shades of EX-11 Sumiredama. But what what I find uniquely interesting is this quad is the shift in opacity which makes all four shades look alternately icy (transparent) and soft (milky) in different lighting or at different angles; just like jade, in fact. In my opinion it's not the green shade Hisuidama/Jade Pearl is named for, but this cloudy/jewelled aspect of all four colours.
I'll let the menny menny pictures which follow illustrate this -- if you have a neater way of explaining it, please leave me a comment!


Swatches
One swipe with the included sponge applicators onto bare arm, various spammy angles because I couldn't capture the flashes/textures of all four stripes at once :/
natural light, overcast
,
angled, sunny
even more angled, still sunny
dark + flash, deliberately fuzzy
I still wasn't happy with how the brown shade photographed -- its green duochrome flash is subtle, but definitely there, and distinct from the flashes from its pink, blue and green shimmer -- so took some more pics -- can you see the base flashing green at the very centre of the swatch?



Mixed Swatches
Suqqu textures have traditionally been a joy to layer and mix, and it's something I've really missed doing with the denser textures and more uniform finishes of the more recent palettes (09 onwards -- none of which I've liked enough to keep :P). So I'm thrilled that the lightweight dry-oil feel of these quads again make mixing an unadulterated pleasaure -- Hisuidama in particular, with its four distinct finishes (vs four pearlescents in Sumiredama), is a dream to layer.
I've only done basic two-shade mixes, but you can absolutely meld all four shades together with a visible increase in complexity each time and zero muddiness. As the individual swatches showed, each of these shades already contain microshimmer that echoes another shade or two in the quad, so in effect you're just amping up a particular flash whose potential was already there.
different angle to show the duochrome/flash effect of layering these


Palette Comparisons
Does it surprise anyone that I have a weakness for springy icecreamy combinations? The most comparable ready-made palettes in my stash are THREE 4D Eyeshadow Palette 06 Tranquil Oasis and Sonia Rykiel Quatre Eyeshadow 10 [also swatched here].

Drab lighting aside, Hisuidama is noticeably softer, both tonally and texturally. THREE Tranquil Oasis isn't really photographing as clearly as I'd like, but it mixes two glitter topcoats (top left and bottom right), a pigmented metallic cream (top right) and a sage green satin with pink glitter (bottom left) -- as if the top right sage green in Hisuidama with its warm pink flash had the contrast turned way up.

The Suqqu palettes I own which overlap with Hisuidama are 07 Komorebi (brown/green), 08 Mizuaoi (pink/blue), and 02 Koedama (sage green).

Skipping the bottom right primer shade in these, I swatched them next to Hisuidama on the gloomiest day ever (sorry.)



Individual Comparisons
Top left blue-white with the blue (top right) from Suqqu 08 Mizuaoi, Addiction Ice Storm, the blue (bottom right) from Sonia Rykiel 09, the blue glitter (bottom right) from THREE 06 Tranquil Oasis, Shu Uemura P 610 (first gen, disc.)


Top right sage green with Rouge Bunny Rouge Periwinkle Cardinal, the top two shades from Suqqu 02 Kokedama (individually and mixed together), the starred shades from KATE Deep Trap Eyes GR-1, Kiko Super Color Eyeliner 113 Olive Green and Addiction Eye Lacquer WP Swimming Pool.
Yes, I may have a bit of an addiction to sage green shadows.... but hey, no real dupes! The closest I can get is from mixing the top two shades of Kokedama, which is coincidentally the 'out' that allows Hisuidama in.


Bottom left cool brown with Suqqu single EX-22 Nibidama (disc.), Rouge Bunny Rouge Eclipse Eagle and Blackpepper Jay. Hisuidama's brown has a noticeably unique green flash in comparison to the more usual purple- or grey-tinged cool browns.


Bottom right pink with Shiseido PK305 Peony, Shu Uemura G135 and ME126 (both current Colour Atelier shades), the pink (top left) from Suqqu EX-05 Usumomokurumi (LE Christmas 2011)pink (bottom left) from EST Emotional Aura Eyes 03 (disc.), pink (bottom left) from Sonia Rykiel 10, and Rouge Bunny Rouge Capricious Nightingale.
Hisuidama's pink fills the satin-pastel niche in my pink collection, perfect for the 'modern '60s' trend bandwagon I'm currently hitching a ride on.


41 comments:

  1. I really like the green in this quad! It seems pretty unique to me, and the shades are so pretty layered! Need to ventured into Suqqu ASAP!

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    1. haha, Freudian slip? Been sleep-hauling, Sunny? :D

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  2. This is such eyecandy! The duochromes are to die for, I really love how perfectly balanced they are, not too much but just enough to make it interesting! I really need to go to London soon! ^^

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    1. <3 I went a little crazy with the swatch playing :D

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  3. Your reviews are just simply amazing! So comprehensive and an absolute delight to look at! Not to mention, very inspiring. WANT!!!

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  4. Oooo, I can't wait to see your looks with this. I had passed on Hisuidama but then I saw someone in the street the other day who I thought might be wearing it & it looked so amazing that I'm reconsidering my decision. I am just a bit nervous about the silver & pink... I'm now quite tempted by the THREE palette as well - I think I need to spend some time playing at the counters!

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    1. I am totally picturing you being stealth mu ninja on the streets of Tokyo.

      The THREE palettes are not popular (even putting swingeing price point aside!) but I am a devotee.

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  5. Hi Kate,
    Your blog has one of the best Suqqu collection!! I enjoy reading your blog and I need Sumiderama in my life :D

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    1. Suqqu is the brand that kind of rekindled my dying makeup addiction a few years ago :D So it seems appropriate!

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  6. This post brings about dry mouth, forlorn looks to the mailbox and furtive sexy thoughts! I originally passed on Hisuidama and then added it at the last minute. Obviously, I am a genius and your post proves it. I'm looking forward to seeing this in person, but I have to say, your gorgeous pictures and comparisons prove certain I am going to heaven.

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    1. Genius and wordsmith. Mailing myself to you, stat.

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  7. I adore your reviews! Can't wait to read Sumiredama's, and I'd love to see some looks with both palettes!

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  8. Of all the palettes I like Sumiredama the best. Thanks for your amazing swatches Kate, very lem inducing.

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    1. That is definitely the one causing the biggest waves :)

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  9. Hi Kate
    Have to ask- which quad is your favourite! or am I asking the impossible! Which brush do you use to apply to get intensity and to then layer?

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    1. If the apocalypse struck the first one I would repurchase would be Kakitsubata :D Maybe not THE most inspiring, but it's the one I use most. Second choice would probably be Mizuaoi.

      For intense laydown I usually use the Shu Natural 10 brush or Suqqu S or M in patting motions :)

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  10. Reading your blog is almost as fun as diving in and playing with this makeup would be.

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  11. How are you getting such a deep shade with the brown? I think mine is a lot sheerer. I'm still not sure the colours suit me. The amazing case makes me want to keep it!

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    1. I never know how to answer this q. :/ I used the sponge applicator it came with to make the individual swipes and then for the comparison swatches I dabbed it on with a fingertip.
      They may vary and skintone may be a factor? I have pigmentation issues with two of the shades in Sumiredama, for ex.

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  12. Yay! You finally release a review for the 2013 S/S Suqqu eye shadows!

    I am very hesitant about buying these because of the duochrome texture. Not to mention they are relatively more frosted/ shimmery than the more raved regular eye shadows.

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    1. I think we have similar tastes :) The duochrome/frost really isn't very strong in this one -- on the eye it's less shimmery than the Suqqu quads from 09 onwards, even a bit less than Guerlain Coup de Foudre.

      I do find the other two (EX-11 and EX-13) a bit too wall-of-frost for my tastes.

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    2. At a careful glance I can say this palette has the blue and green seen in many 2013 S/S palettes and thus so trendy. The other 2 are obviously more brand specific.

      Is this a more “middle” toned e/s picks for more skin tones?

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    3. I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean... I think colour-wise EX-11 is probably the 'compromise' quad that will suit the widest variety of skintones. Texturally EX-12 is most varied and versatile.

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    4. Sorry again for the confusing adjectives.

      This quad has mostly cool-toned grids and many people online commented that it is cool-toned skin LIMITED. So I didn't expect it to be less unacceptable than EX-11 for warmer skin tones.

      But the funny siade is, the official poster feature EX-11 with a rather warm and yellow face, but the event photo using EX-12 has heavy photoshop effect as the model looks total white.

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    5. Oh, I see! To follow on from our conversation earlier, I don't actually subscribe to any rules like "X undertones should only wear X undertoned makeup" -- I just put the info in as a descriptive (not prescriptive) element. Especially silly when Western 'rules' and Asian 'rules' about what kind of skintones *should* wear what are often reversed!

      While neither strays crazily far from neutral, EX-11 is definitely on the warmer and EX-12 on the cooler side. Does that help at all?

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    7. 2 thumbs up! Out of my own maze now. :) Bye (waving)

      Even so, the EX-12 is more tempting (tired of purple/ blue eyeliner shades)

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  13. Arrrghh as if I needed any more of a reason to lust for Suqqu's palettes. New dreamy textures and pretty white packaging?! WANT!!

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  14. So gorgeous, you're making me feel all tempted, you evil vixen! I think you're on to something with your thoughts about the greater textural complexity when compared to Sumi, which would be ever-so-slightly better with a wild card like a matte or matte base with shimmer thrown in.

    I can find green, pink, and blue all difficult to wear, so I'm looking forward to seeing FOTDs!

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    1. Thank you for throwing me a cookie :D
      My dream Sumi would have the purple as a matte-with-sparkle and the yellow as all-out glitter (with pigment :P).

      These are v much my safety-net colours, as you see :)

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  15. Your mixed swatches are making my heart flutters wildly! They never fail to have that effect on me. I need to take out my Suqqu and SR palettes and do some major experimentation soon.

    I have Hisuidama on the way to me and I've recently come to appreciate the beauty of the sage green shade in Kokedama. So now I'm more excited than ever to receive Hisuidama!

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    1. <3 There is a bit of the ugly-pretty in Hisuidama's green. I'm not sure a rose-flashing green is the PRETTIEST idea, but my how it appeals to me.

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  16. Swatch heaven! There are some great shades and combinations in there.

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  17. Can't wait to see the looks you come you come up with : )

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  18. This was the only palette I didn't get out of the new spring ones because it looks really similar to the Christmas EX-08 Hanamari palette. At least, I *hope* it looks really similar :(

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  19. I have EX-11 and agree completely about the texture of the eye shadows compared to the permanent palettes. Love the white casing too, it's somehow matte and iridescent at the same time.

    Also looking forward to see how you wear EX-12. Your swatches make me think of an old fashioned ice cream sundae - vanilla, chocolate, strawberry and pistacho.

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