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Monday, 30 December 2013

Foundation Matches

It's been a full two years since my last post on this subject, which is absolute eons in base makeup terms according to my Japanese mags (in Japan, base makeup is reformulated and refreshed every season -- that's at least twice a year -- with the latest tech), and there have been quite a few changes since then.

My skin has become even drier and noticeably thinner in those two years, which means that a) there's just plain more to cover in terms of unevenness and general veininess if I want a uniform canvas; b) owing to this greater translucency, blood shows through more strongly, pulling my undertones more towards the cool pink side of neutral; and c) formulas I used to be able to tolerate / swing in summer / make work with careful mixing and priming (e.g. Nars Sheer Glow, Addiction Dewy Glow, Paul&Joe Light Cream S, MUFE Mat Velvet) I just flat-out cannot wear anymore. Since beginning to layer a physical over my chemical sunscreen daily, my face has also become paler -- where it used to range from half a shade to a full shade darker than the rest of me (usually swathed in various draperies :P), now I'm pretty much uniform in colour; so two of the palest shades from my original swatch lineup (Illamasqua Skin Base 02 and Graftobian Lady Fair) are two of the medium ones in today's batch.

Needs aside, my tastes haven't really changed much -- I like as dewy a finish as possible, since my saharan skin will scale even an oil slick back to a satin*; and as emollient a texture as possible, because I prefer working with high-slip creamy things (and they play well with the cream finishes of my skincare); higher pigmentation is better because using a minuscule amount of of a high-coverage product adds less texture than a moderate amount of a sheer one. Alcohol-free is a must, fragrance-free is a huge plus.

I pretty much always apply foundation only where needed after one of my primers, usually sporadically in the triangle from nose to chin, blending out to cover my inner cheeks; I almost never take product onto my forehead or the sides of my face beyond/below my cheekbones. Also, please bear in mind that I apply all of these over my many layers of skincare, including sunscreens, and then a moisturising primer, so if you have dry skin, don't expect these to be comfortable worn neat.

*I like 'dewy' or 'satin' finishes not because they're 'natural' looking but because the formulas with those finishes are more comfortable on my skin. Although I believe concealer must work invisibly, foundations are more like colour products to me and I'll amp up the glow factor, powder things down to matte or layer things up for an extremely polished base depending on what vibe I'm after for a particular look.


Let's take a look at the products themselves!
LIQUID: 
Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation 00 Alabaster -- a rare neutral-pink shade among BB's yellow lineup, in an easy-to-work with liquid with medium coverage that sets to a comfortable satin on me. Alabaster in Skin runs much lighter than Alabaster in most of her other foundations.

CREAMS: 
Illamasqua Skinbase 02, a gel-cream whose chalky matte finish I loathe, actually, but a reasonably accessible pale option and I'm swatching the last dregs anyway.
Laura Mercier Silk Crème Soft Ivory [see here], an old favourite which is sadly now too dark and yellow for me to wear for most of the year.
Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation 001 -- a new favourite discovered this year, a similarly thick silicone-y cream with a satin finish to Laura Mercier Silk Crème, but more emollient and with slightly less hardcore coverage. Fabulously perfecting of skin texture, however.
Mehron HD Pro Full Coverage Cream LT-1 (round pot) -- a lovely high-slip, thinnish cream with impressive coverage, but sadly unforgiving of dry skin.
Graftobian HD Glamour Cream Ultra-Lites palette -- slightly thicker than Mehron, with even greater coverage, and even less forgiving on dry skin in real life (hello fines lines and flakes!) Photographs absolutely flawlessly, however. This palette includes one yellow, two neutral, and two pink shades. I wear the two neutral ones: Lady Fair and Porcelain and dabble with the others as correctors.

STICKS:
Vapour Organic Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 90 [reviewed] -- the most emollient formula in the whole batch, but slightly unrefined in finish -- it's plain old coverage without any skin-texture flattery.
Shu Uemura Nobara stick in 584 and 784, magic on pores and skin texture, concealer-level coverage, now discontinued >:C


SWATCHES
In order of depth this time.  These shades cover me throughout the year from depth of British winter pale to running-around-in-the-tropical-summer-for-months 'tanned' -- I know they seem to cover an insanely wide range but bear in mind these are very heavy swatches, and most days I'll sheer out a tiny dot the size of a grain of (arborio, if we're being specific :P) rice with a damp beautyblender sponge for my entire face. With my dry skin, I never experience oxidisation, and my inner arm is pasty enough that the darker shades look unnaturally orange, but except for the MAC F&B all these shades are paler than a MAC NC15.
MAC Face & Body N1 (as a reference only)
Shu Uemura Nobara stick 784, neutral yellow, full coverage
Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory neutral peach, full coverage
Shu Uemura Nobara stick 584 neutral pink, full coverage
Vapour Atmosphere Luminous 90, neutral peach, med-full coverage
Bobbi Brown Skin 00 Alabaster, neutral pink, medium coverage
Graftobian HD Glamour Cream Lady Fair, neutral, v full coverage
Illamasqua Skin Base 02, neutral pink, medium+ coverage
Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture 001, neutral-slightly pink, medium+ coverage
Mehron HD Pro LT-1, neutral, full coverage
Graftobian HD Glamour Cream Porcelain, neutral, v full coverage



MIXERS
...are still necessary because often the formulas that work for my skin at its driest (e.g. Vapour) come in shades too dark for my winter pallor, while those pale enough (Graftobian, Mehron) need much textural improvement through highlighter -- I can't quite make up my mind as to which is the lesser evil so play things by ear. You'll also have noticed that most of these foundations swatch as neutral-hyphen-something, and on my pale neutral-neutral skin, that something tends to translate as visibly jaundiced or flushed face vs. neck/chest/rest of me. I like a cool purple mixer to correct yellow tones without adding warm pink ones, and a neutral blue to take too-pink/orange-peach formulas down a notch. No artist, I'm not sure why green mixers are always an epic fail on me, but they either make shades muddy or just look...visibly green. 
GLOW+COLOUR: A trio from Rouge Bunny Rouge: Sea of Clouds is a neutral white light-scatterer with no arrant silver robot sheen, while Sea of Tranquility is an opalescent pink that doesn't register as colour so much as magically harmonise warmer looks on me. The liquid bronzer As If It Were Summer Still is bottled sunshine, rather than a suntan, light and yellow enough (rather than brown) to work even on ultra pale skin.
COLOUR-CORRECTORS: Kryolan Ultra Fluid Foundation Blue (a thin sky-blue liquid), Suki CC Cream 02 Whitening (a very pale lilac cream that lightens as well as correcting yellow), and Barry M Foundation Crème in White -- a thick yet blendable white cream that works well with the foundation formulas I favour -- it's so pigmented only a tiny dot is needed to lighten without messing with the formula/finish of foundations, unlike Mac F&B White which I used to pour in by the bottleful.

Heavy swatches:



PS a clarification: the foundations featured in this post aren't recommendations, unless you happen to be my exact skintwin both in tone and type. Formula-wise I can rattle off about two dozen superior ones to these off the top of my head, with more elegant finishes and greater ease of application; sadly, I'm just too bloody pale for them -- 'lifting' more than one shade with a mixer creates a hot mess.

65 comments:

  1. Hey Kate, wow, thanks for such an extensive post! I personally have different problems (my pesky shiny T-zone. I also have to match my foundation more to my neck, since my face is half a shade paler), but I'm sure there are people out there with a similar skin tone/type who will find this post very helpful!

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    1. I definitely matched to my neck / rest of me even when my face was darker, so we are agreed! :D I have been promising to make this post for months XD

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  2. Happy holidays!

    I have the HARDEST time with foundations -- despite being yellow-olive, most yellow foundations look too yellow or downright orange on me, & it's shockingly hard to find the neutral-yellow-olive shades in medium skintones that work best for me. Most of the time, I slap some concealer on & call it a day, but my skin's been acting up lately & that may no longer be an option. :(

    I'm starting to wonder if ANYONE can find a decent match without having to mix!

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    1. Olive is really difficult to match because there seems to be such a wide range of 'temperatures' within that undertone that aren't catered to at all :( Have you tried the YO type shades from Japanese brands? Those tend to skew olive, but there are usually only one or two shades to choose from :/ So if you're not NC20-30 you're usually out of luck :/

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    2. I'm probably NC25 to NC30 at my winter palest, so I suppose I could give it a shot! Do you have any specific brand recommendations? :) Thanks so much!

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    3. Lunasol has gorgeous formulas! YO-03 would be the shades to check out I think :)

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    4. You're the best! :) Thanks!

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  3. Layering sunscreens?! Never thought of doing that, but it's something I should look into if I am to accomplish the feat of my face matching my neck! o.O

    Kate, why physical over chemical and not the other way around?

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    1. Heh, mainly because I find physical filters very drying so can ONLY wear them over chem filters and as many buffering layers as possible! Also the physical formulas I can take tend wear better/last longer than my creamy chemical sunscreens so it makes more sense to me to have those as a topcoat to sort of 'lock' the layers beneath into place a bit. :)

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    2. Chemical sunscreens work by being absorbed by the skin whereas physical sunscreens sit on the surface. If you were to use a physical screen first, it would prevent the chemical from being absorbed so you wouldn't be getting the full protective advantage of using it.

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  4. OK, I know now to stay away from all the foundations you use. LOL! Those you can't use anymore, I love :-P

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    1. haha, you might like the Graftobian ones -- I only put up with them because super pale shades ;)

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  5. Hi! Thanks for this post, I thought Bobbi Brown had just yellowy shades, I'll check Alabaster asap. Btw, I was really surprised by the purpose of this blue corrector, I'll take that into account. I'm surrently using a green one for my redness but I dislike the greenish effect my face gets. I may try a blue one for this issue, so I'll check my MUFE counter since I think they have it.

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    1. Many if not most of her 'Alabaster' shades are yellow too I think, but Skin is a really good formula! :)
      A makeup artist buddy gave me the Kryolan so I thought I'd give it a shot -- surprised at how well it works too! I find the MUFE (HD primer?) too sheer to do anything, but you may have better luck :)

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  6. Kate, how I so so so wish we were skin twins because your foundation posts (with all the corrective) mixers are such useful posts of beauty.
    Did I mention that for some odd reason, the Suqqu FFCN is now working beautifully? Mystery that makes me so very happy!

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    1. I run around orange and green so y'all don't have to, kinda thing? :D
      \o/ ours is not to reason why, ours is but to be super hot :*

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  7. Really interesting but my foundation needs are quite different. My skin is oily and dehydrated so I need a satin finish that also doesn't cling to flakey bits. Also I'm very pale with a much lighter chest and neck (due to perma winter in Britain/Ireland). I like Guerlain lingerie de peau, parure gold (both slightly too dark but I sheer out) and sisley phyto eclat (i think that's the name). Also dabbling with Givenchy teint couture but think its too drying for my winter skin.

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    1. Oily and dehydrated is a tough combo indeed! I'm glad lasting power is one thing I never have to worry about :) If you like those Guerlain formulas you may like the new By Terry Densiliss -- there's one pale shade in the line (no.2 not no.1 weirdly enough) but if it matches you it's a great one!

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  8. Wow! This really puts it in perspective. I used to think I had a hard time finding foundations that are the right colour (always too salmon/ pink/orange/ light/dark for me...) but I think I have it easy in comparison to you! D:

    www.thislipsticklife.com

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    1. D: I think everyone has it tough, frankly! We're just picky enough to notice ;)

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  9. Thank you so much for this - in general, but specifically the mixing shades you're using. I've been told 'green' for years, and figured the muddiness was just a matter of user error on my part. But we have very similar undertones, although I'm a touch less pale than yourself ... and think I might try this trick with the neutral blue, and the pale lilac corrector. Thank you!

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    1. I struggled for years too, assuming it was my fault / the wrong product. Please do let me know how the new mixers work for you!

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  10. That said, have you tried Korean foundation/ base options? Every single one of their beauty vids / celebs have that intensely perfect glowing superpale face.... so mayybe their cosmetics will cater more for that range?

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    1. I think lighting plays a big part, because the palest Korean shades are all too dark for me, and the two exceptions I've found in all these years only work in summer :/ When I'm actually in Korea people freak out over my skintone and how I've ruined it by having the temerity to freckle?! oy.

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  11. Hi Kate, I've got a question about the application of the glow mixers: do you mix pre application or on your face and how do you make sure you don't overdo the glowyness?

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    1. Hi Bronwen, I just put a dab of fdtn and of highlighter on to the back of my hand and mix before applying. It's difficult to overdo glowy on me, but after a few goes I think you'll get an idea of what kind of size of dots are right for your preferences :) FYI if using the RBR ones, their pump dispenses far too much so I unscrew and use the straw as a dropper.

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  12. I have a weird memory of BB Skin to be... too yellow for me? That was years ago, though, when it first came out. I should sample it again, though.

    And I must get the Mehron or the Graftobian. Funny question: how do you get the product out before Beautyblender-ing it? They look like fabulous options. I am excited.

    And I love that you actually use the RBR on a daily basis! I've wanted them for ages but was hoodwinked by the Armani fluid sheers (which I LOVE, actually, but since I rarely use them, I can't justify the RBRs also...)

    I am about to place a Face Stockholm order. Just narrowing down which I really want. (Was thinking of waiting for your post (?) on them, but then I looked at the sad state of my blush drawer and decided I shouldn't wait :D)

    Adele

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    1. Companies do sneakily tweak old formulas IMO -- my new Silk Creme is peachier than the old, and many MUAers agree.
      I use a little plastic spatula to scoop out a tiny bit -- the kind that sometimes comes with eye creams, cream foundations etc. I have a wee box full and just clean them regularly. I suspect Sally's might have these or DIY skincare places like GoW? Or you could use the broken off end of a q-tip tbh. :D
      Dude, I am on my THIRD RBR Sea of Clouds! I would freak out over losing that more than any foundation in the world :D

      Quick FS post should be up next week, your call ;)

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  13. Green+Pink = brown. Those colours work nice when painting rocks imo. They really pop against each other bringing out the texture.

    Judging from the arm swatch picture, I think green will never work on you because it seems like you have a slight purple undertone (unless photo white balance is off) and blending a green over you will never work out. Green is on the opposite side of pink-purple so it won't blend and it will be like a spot colour. Even as subtle skin colours, it will be odd. Most colour wheel pictures will prove this. I think you have it right with light blues and purples work because they don't contrast and blend in perfectly. It may be strange but experienced illustrators use light blues and purples to highlight skin and reserve white for final touches when painting pale skin. This might be why you like green eyeshadows so much as well :)

    I like the rbr highlighters and they are only good for 12 months then they start to separate a bit yet. The bronze one a great fake tan colour but I almost never use it.

    I have a fair few things that don't work on my skin any more as well but I kind of stopped using foundation altogether unless I'm going out. I treat foundations like tubes of paint, custom mix all the time. I wonder if I can just mix pigments into a cream or glowy primer.

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    1. *bows down* I really appreciate your input on this!
      A few artists before have mentioned that I have a blue/purple undertone but I really had never heard of this :/ It does explain things, I think, AND my love of green shadows to boot? :D (I find purples/pinks more harmonious/sultry but reach for green when I want drama.)

      I've been fortunate with my RBR I think -- just shake them up before use and they seem to stay good over the 1.5-3 years it takes me to finish a bottle (gawd, clearly I do bathe in the stuff!) I was especially paranoid about the bronzer turning but it has behaved and now I'm down to the last 10% :)

      I would love to read posts on your mad scientist/artist mixtures!

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  14. This is so helpful! I'm as pale as you but with sensitive oily/normal combination skin,cool olive undertones and live in a tropical country( Mexico) with mad sun even then this will allow me what colors will help me to light my foundations/ bb cream / cc cream and not be orange! :D

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    1. If you're combo/normal and olive I strongly recommend the Graftobian yellow shades! :) I've used that on friends for tropical weddings and it wears like iron and photographs so well.

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    2. Sadly for me yellow( like Nars Siberia) = Orange , Pink( like Mufe mv 15)= Salmon; and my skin is pink/purple/green T_T how much green depends of the light, like in the city that I'm living now is very noticeable and the pink is more purple and in the city that I uses to live the green was almost invisible and my skin was mostly pink with a little tinny bit of purple; and when I was visiting my sister in Asia (for almost five months each time) because the sun in summer is so weak( compared to my country) I got so white that I started to reflect the colors of the walls and in rooms with white walls I looked blue(light blue) like a mutant or something :(

      Did strangers touch you in Korea because of you skin? Because they did that to me a lot! In the subway,stores and even on the street! Children,old woman's,young woman's an even some old men( the young ones mostly took pictures of me) suddenly will touch my arm or face and said so white and sometimes small head? and it was so creepy!!! Nobody did that to me in the asian countries that we went the only thing was that everyone trough that I was mixed (I have small, hooded, black eyes and black hair) and they just couldn't accept that I was Mexican whit not asian blood and my sister was my sister and my mom was my mom (sister is blond and mom is like nc 30 brown hair and eyes)

      Sorry for the long rant and the bad english grammar, I will try to get hold of the foundation and the blue primer? We have mufe in my city they have a blue primer, it will be the same? Could I use purple instead of blue? ( koran brands have it and they ship to my country) .

      Thanks I really appreciate your posts and find them really helpful! :)

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    3. You make a great point about ambient light affecting skintone! I wonder if this is true of everyone and just more visible on pale skins, or if it's more of an issue for pale people.

      It sounds like you have a really discerning eye so I think you may need both blue and purple correctors to adjust depending on where you are / the weather etc. to be happy. Blue/Purple shades have visibly different on my skin so they're not really replaceable, but I do use the purple one more, personally. The MUFE primers are too sheer to achieve much for me, but if you can try them out at the counter you can see for yourself :) Korean purple primers tend to leave a visibly grey cast on my skin rather than colour-correcting, so I dislike them -- again this is personal.

      Sorry this isn't very helpful! D: You can order the Suki purple from sasa.com and the Kryolan blue is sold at stage makeup shops and places like camerareadycosmetics.com online.

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    4. I tend to absorb whatever color the lighting is. A lot of indoor lights are very warm so inside I tend to look warmer and darker than I actually am. Get me outside or photography me indoors with only ambient daylight and I'm revealed as the glowy-white pinky-purpley person I am.

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  15. Some amazing tips! I especially like the ones about the mixers. I like certain foundation formulas that are a bit too yellow and I abhor the "brightening" pink-based ones as I suffer from permanent underlying redness in my skin bleh.

    Lunasol does some nice colour correcting bases, have you tried those? They seem a bit sticky and oily to me... Your recommendations are pretty obscure for me here in Singapore.

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    1. I think we can agree that foundation should match the skin :) I did used to use yellower shades to fight against my rosacea but since getting the redness under control those yellow formulas just looked...yellower than the rest of my skin and gave me floating face syndrome.

      Lunasol's bases were discontinued a while ago, I think, I never got to try them.

      The products I featured today aren't really recommendations unless you happen to be as super pale and dry as I am, to be honest. The only one I can walk over to a counter and buy is the Laura Mercier, myself. If I *had* matches at every department store counter and drugstore display I certainly wouldn't bother tracking these down!

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    2. Yea, still hoping that the redness will slowly go away... I hate floating face. Here in Singapore it's ladies abusing pink-toned foundations. >:(

      I haven't been to a Lunasol counter in awhile, I should remedy that soon!

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    3. I find the pink/white face, yellow neck thing SO distracting in kdramas I have to rewind sometimes to catch the conversational thread again :P

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  16. This post is honestly SO helpful to me! I can't even match concealer :) hehe

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  17. great post, as usual. I love Sea of Tranquility as a mixer, I just love it full stop really.

    Happy New Year, lovely xx

    Aye Lined 

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  18. As I kind of consider you the expert on the field of pale foundations: Can you recommend one or two that are of the same color as Paul & Joe Cream Foundation in 00 Alabaster (meaning really fair and of this cool yellow shade)?
    That one used to be my holy grail of foundations but I don`t want to continue using it for it contains so much alcohol.

    Thanks in advantage + a happy new year!

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    1. Hello! I'm sure you know cool yellows are really tough to find so I don't have many ideas :(
      You might try Graftobian Graceful Swan, maybe mixed with Porcelain to lighten. The palest shade of Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX01 is also a coolish yellow but that is a really thick formula that requires mixing with moisturiser/primer to make it remotely wearable as foundation (and I personally couldn't ever get a mix I could wear). Yaby Ivory (they make several formulas, the cream is nicest I think) is also a possibility.

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    2. Thanks a lot for your recommendations!
      I tried the Yaby Ivory in both formulas and it`s really good colourwise though a little drying but I can live with that and some Elizabeth Arden 8 hour cream underneath on my cheeks.
      I`m also quite curious about the Skin Enhancer SX01 but I cannot swatch it anywhere around where I live (I`m from Germany) and since it`s quite pricey I`m a little adverse to purchasing it online.
      Thanks again for your recommendations!

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  19. I really need to try at least one RBR base/highlighter, definitely! I just need to finish up what I have on hand first. I agree w/ skin getting thinner, I used to be leaning more neutral, now I become yellower and yellower with some red blotches here and there. It's been a challenge for sure to find a yellow-tone foundation that is not warm (or orange!).. I wish they make more of a lemon-yellow based foundations.

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    1. Claire, I'm sure you won't be surprised, but Japanese lines carry more cool yellow options :) Sadly the depth range is very narrow (usually NC15-30), which is the other kicker :/

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  20. Even when our skins are totally different (mine is combo oily medium toned) I really enjoy Reading this post, since it totally proves YMMV. I will show it to all of those who say "I can't find a foundation match because I'm too pale" just to make them realize it's posible :p

    I also loved the part about mixers, because I'm totally numb about that, I just don't use them -if you don't count Skin79 CC correcting cream that I use as primer, but that's white-ish and it then adjuts to my skintone.

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    1. lol well 'pale' is relative, innit? I am sort of glad I'm not an easier-to-match shade because lordy I LOVELOVELOVE obsessing over tiny barely visible textural differences and if I were around NC25 I would have no monies and all the foundations in the world.

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    2. Indeed, paleness is relative... some people consider me "pale" when I'm actually medium.

      Believe me, if you were NC25, you would still have issues to buy foundation. Even for medium tones (and most brands have shades for this) it's difficult, it's either too yellow, too pink, too green, too peachy... etc.

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  21. Hi Kate! Greetings from Finland. I have been following your blog for a few months and I really have to say that this is one of my favorites. I just love your make up looks and I think you are really pretty :)

    Which sunscreens are your favorites? I'm looking for some light textures that work under foundation. My skin is mostly dry but combination too, and sometimes it's really sensitive and irritated. I wish to be paler than this, even though I live in Finland...

    Happy new year!

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    1. Hello Anni!
      For high protection and a thin texture I would recommend Sunplay Super Block SPF50 PA++++, which you can find on ebay (I like the seller alphabeautyuk). It depends on what your personal sensitivities are but this is alcohol- and fragrance-free.

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  22. I came to the conclusion recently that my skin might be more neutral pink than just pink undertone - well, the skin on my body pulls more neutral, so I think I should focus on evening things out; I need to check your mixers out! Also, I recently ordered the palest pink/neutral in Koh Gen Do Aqua foundation, we'll see how it goes.

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    1. I think most people have pinker faces in relation to their bodies but to be fair it's not the kind of thing I really noticed until I got into foundations and started really looking for it, lol
      Eager to read your Aqua review :) It's very popular with the combo/oily folks on makeupalley.

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  23. I didn't realize that you were that pale. I'm going to have to pay more attention to your recs since I know some of these work for me. Your swatches are very helpful.

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    1. I hadn't realised you were so pale either, Marcia! :) Cameras are tricky things!

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  24. I can imagine loving your Koh Ren Doh Maifanshi...I love mine.
    In contrast to you, I had a bit of Wizard-of-Oz Tin-man sheen with RBR lightest highlighter, only in photographs.

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    1. Oh dear! ...I admit I don't care how things photograph, really, only how they look to me in real life. Am bad blogger *hides*

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  25. My favorite kind of post!
    Right now, the Vapour Luminous in 090 is my closest match, and I love love love it on dry winter skin (+Nobara to conceal marks) ... the only problem is I can't wear it on an everyday basis without breakouts D: I think it's the beeswax which is a sometimes-problematic ingredient for me.
    I could buffer it with Suti Purity Balm (TRUE LOVE!!) which ironically also has beeswax, but somehow magically never causes problems ... but then it'll all slip and slide off my face by lunchtime if I don't set it. (Though it'll feel fabulous while it's doing it.)

    SG Sibera sheered with a beauty blender is still my daily go-to. I'm annoyingly aware this is an imperfect solution (more yellow than I actually need to knock back the red), but in terms of not causing me to break out, it's a miracle product. (So of course now I'm curious about the new(ish?) cream version.)
    As much as I don't really want to re-buy an imperfect product, I think that's what's gonna happen since I'm now scraping the sides of my Muji decant. (If I have another lid-breakage issue with SG I'm gonna flip out and hulk-smash and NARS counter, just see if I don't!)

    I loved how BB Skin looked on me, but it gave me one of the most severe and immediate skin reactions I've ever experienced :( that and Chante FS.

    I love the idea of the KGD, but I think that's a shade too pale for me, and too neutral/pink? Some yellowish tones are really necessary to get my face to pull closer to neutral like my neck and the rest of my body. Next shade down looks much darker.

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    1. Hmmmm! I wonder if some kind of beeswax-free buffering primer thingy under the Vapour might do the trick? Like ze Shu mousse, perhaps? (It also adds some textural refinement which Vapour lacks, if you need help in that area!)

      The palest shade in the Nars cream does seem more neutral than Sheer Glow Siberia, but personally I found it just as dry, if not drier! :( Only based on a swatch in store, mind, so maybe the beautyblender magic with help things along.

      KGD does have weird hiccupy shades -- when I swatched the line in Japan 001 wasn't available and everything seemed to *start* at NC20 :/

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  26. You know what, Kate? You're brilliant using the blue color corrector to tone down too peach/pink tones of foundation. I have used green before, but I, too, find that it muddies the color or makes it look green. I have a lavender pink primer/corrector from Koh Gen Do that I use to brighten up my complexion and correct sallowness, but I don't think I've ever seen or even considered blue. I have to get my hands on it now! Thanks so much for the idea!

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    1. \o/ I hope it works out for you! :D A clever artist friend with a very good eye convinced me to try it :P I still refuse to describe my undertones as 'purple' however.

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  27. Ahhhh I'm so glad I found this blog. I'm super pale, too and finding a foundation match is a never-ending search. Illamasqua SB #2 is a match, but the finish is just not right for me--kind of heavy and my skin had trouble with that.

    Have you tried Missha Signature Real Complete BB cream in shade #13? It's one of the few that is pale enough for me, and it happens to be the right undertone, too.

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