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Friday, 10 January 2014

Chanel Diapason Illusion D'Ombre 92

Spring collections are already peppering counters here in Hong Kong like a flock of predictably pastel butterflies, but personally I'm not over ye burgundy-bruised opium-eater eyes of winter yet. What?That's my seasonal colour story and I'm a-stickin' to it.

So it's a good thing that among the bright lipsticks and blushes (and even a PAHNK liner, you go Glen Coco!) on Chanel's Notes des Printemps display, there was lurking a somewhat murkier jar...
Chanel Diapason Illusion D'Ombre 92
indirect natural light

Namely 92 Diapason, a new Illusion D'Ombre to join both Chanel's and my collection, it being a burgundyplum filled with multitonal, predominantly blue, sparkle. i.e. classic Kate-bait. Because LOOKIT the sparkles, twinkling, agitating, whispering sweet nothings:
Chanel Diapason Illusion D'Ombre 92
natural light, weak sun

The blue sparkle absolutely saturates Diapason's rich red-plum base, giving a strong duochrome effect, which becomes obvious once you 'break' its pristine surface -- Diapason on the left, with (the sad dry remains of my) Illusoire on the right, a much more muted, taupe-greyed purple:

Swatches in the same order, made with the included synthetic brushes
Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Diapason vs Illusoire comparison swatch
natural light
Diapason, like the discontinued Asia-exclusive shade Rivière, has a denser, smoother, more creamy texture than the core Illusions D'Ombre (including Illusoire) or last season's Initiation, with finer, more tightly packed shimmer which looks like a delicate sheen in dimmer light, rather than Illusoire's heavier metallic sparkle.
Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Diapason vs Illusoire comparison swatch
full sun
Among the ultrafine cool blue shimmer, Diapason also contains larger flecks of turquoise, pink, and white-gold sparkle -- all cool tones which 'pop' against its warm red-plum base. Illusoire's sparkle is more balanced in tone, with warm pink and red alongside cooler lime and palest icy lilac.
Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Diapason vs Illusoire comparison swatch
full sun with extra fuzz

Although I love Illusoire (enough to use it down to the last crumbs), the higher-contrast Diapason is even more to my taste. *cough* No, seriously:
comparison swatches: Charlotte Tilbury Amethyst Aphrodisiac, THREE Star Guitar, Shu Uemura Karl Lagerfeld Prestigious Bordeaux, Chanel Diapason
Charlotte Tilbury Amethyst Aphrodisiac Colour Chameleon pencil and the plum from THREE 09 Star Guitar quad both share Diapason's warm reddened base, but the icy coolness and concentration of Diapason's blue microshimmer is unique in this batch. Unlike the purple pan from the Shu Uemura x Karl Lagerfeld Prestigious Bordeaux palette, Diapason stays very much poised as a blue-overlaid-red rather than combining fully into a royal purple.

With all this inbuilt complexity, no point in gilding the lily further. A simple wash of Diapason, laid down all over my lid up to the socket and taken all the way under the eye, edges blended gently with a Sephora Pro #28 brush, looks like this:

The sheerer, blended-out edges let the warmer base peek through, while the untampered areas on my lid flashes more strongly blue. But differently blue (and red) depending on the specific contours of the eye *_*
Lips: Etude House Rosy Tint Lips 3 Rose Petal (also mixed with foundation and worn very lightly as blush) Base/Basics: Suqqu Makeup Base Creamy, Mehron Celebre HD Foundation LT-1, Burberry Sheer Concealer 01, Shu Uemura H9 Eyebrow Pencil Stone Grey, Fasio Full Dynamic Volume mascara


PS I have a feeling my Diapason may not be quite au diapason with the Diapason other bloggers have reviewed -- whether it's a batch issue or concession to Asian makeup's infatuation with great sparkle* my pot seems to have much more and stronger blue shimmer. (The way the undertones of the base pull more purple, red or brown can be explained by differences in skintone, I think.) Fortunately, this one is easily accessible, so I recommend swatching before buying :)

*EDIT: thanks to my pals at Wondegondigo and Musing On Beauty, I can confirm that the ingredients lists for the Diapason sold in the US, Europe and Asia are identical; all are made in France. So I'm chalking this one up to possible batch variation / skintone / lighting -- I think the four bloggers I linked to above all have posh studio lighting setups, while I have... an open window.

40 comments:

  1. GAH. I'm not a cream shadow girl, but I think that the allure of this colour is just too much. Must... own... It's calling my name. Or possibly yours. Maybe both?

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    1. *reddyblooowhispers* KAAAAAATESSSSSSS
      yep, that's us!

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  2. Hey Kate, I knew this would look great on you! I am not sure about the red undertone. That's something I really can't pull off too well! Still, I'd like to swatch it just to see what it's like :)

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    1. hehe, I was all set NOT to buy this. Then I swatched and out came my card so fast it made an audible 'woosh'. Fair warning!

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  3. You are making me want these (no surprise) even when I know that I'm an Armani potted shadow girl and the textures of the Chanel/Dior aren't really my thing. This is so beautiful on you!

    Adele

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    1. It's only fair! Armani seem to release more delicious complex ETKI every month to mock me D:

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  4. Ahhh! *maniacal cackle cackle coughcougcough pbthpbbbtththth* I didn't even NEED your full post to give in to the lemming for Diapason! I just saw your little teaser when you reviewed THREE Star Guitar to RUN RUN RUN to the Chanel counter. So plain to see, I've lost all my makeup marbles by reading this blog. D: D: D:

    I had Illusoire at one point and I do think Diapason has more complexity (a la blue) and the high contrast reddened base which is makes it such a beauty. Also surprised at how pigmented and how long it lasts on my oilies. <333

    Can't believe you did that eye with just this one shade though. *___*

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    1. lol *disposes of belly furball discretely*

      I always do doubletakes of confusion when SAs/MAs here go nuts over how inny-and-outy my eye structure is, but apparently it just takes a complexsparkleunicorncream to show that up! :O

      Still doing le 'to repurchase or not' dance with Illusoire :/ Diapason replaces Ebloui, y'see, so I haz a free 'in'!

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  5. awww, the Asian market gets the sparklier & bluer version??? It is a superb colour and look how stunning it goes on you. I will settle with the Euro version :) and am curious how it lives up next to Armani Eyes to Kill

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    1. lol nope nope! :) I can't wear ETKI, but I don't think I've seen a red+blue combo in their line?

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  6. I hope to get the sparklier & bluer version, since we tend to get French or Asian Chanel stuff instead of US Chanel stuff -I know, we're neibours but still lol. I'm starting to give more love to my IdO lately, especially since Bellyhead got me back to blue eyeshadow and I'm developing a special love to sparkles, so I'm going for this one :)

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    1. XD I got carried away with speculation!
      Sparkles are the bestest! :D I am actually looking to streamline my IdO collection since it's such a race against the inevitable drying-out, but can't quite bear to let any go :/

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    2. I keep my IdO closed in their original box in a dark space (train case), none has dried out yet and I got Illusoire and Mirifique at the first release. I'm getting Diapason, but passing on the other one since seems too close to Pink Lagoon, and I'm trying to reduce my dupe-y collection

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    3. The pink one is A LOT paler than Pink Lagoon -- I think you can skip simply because it would just be a layering shade on you and so less versatile.

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    4. I went to the counter yesterday (and got Diapasón lol), the pink one is indeed paler than Pink Lagoon. In fact, seems just an explosion of glitter without any color pay-off, it reminded me of Bobbi Brown's sparkle eyeshadows, which was very, very dissappointing.

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  7. I don't know, Kate. My diapason has quite a strong blue shimmer as well, and I reside in the U.S. It does have that bruise toned base, which, depending on the angle of light, can either mute the blue shimmer or bring it out, but it's there nonetheless in all it's glory. Other bloggers' swatches almost made me pass up the shade, but I'm glad I decided to check it out in person.

    It might have something to do with skin tones. I'm not as pale as you, but I am quite fair, wearing the lightest or second lightest "yellow" shade of foundation in most brands.

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    1. TY :) You're so right, I think skintones and variability of lighting / equipment are more significant.
      I am also so glad I brought myself to swatch it in reality -- the early reviews had convinced me I didn't need another red-brown.

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    2. I just swatched Diapason... and i think Chris is right, it all depends on the skin tone. I'm NC20 Asian, but cool-toned, and Diapason is cool - at most - neutral on me.

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    3. Thanks for weighing in, lovely! I guess I was thrown because usually I can extrapolate from other swatchers/bloggers but this one looks more different than most products.

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  8. Kate bait eh? WELL. *lays trail of sparklies across the Pacific Ocean* But Diapason is very lovely on you, and I can see why you'd like it more than Illusoire. :)

    Re: differences in swatches, I think it's definitely due to your WYSIWIG-neutral skin tone. XD The Star Guitar cream purple looks nothing like that on me--I'm a a complex sparkle/duochrome blackhole. :/

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    1. You need no bait, just drop trou! :D

      LOL at your CSDB status :P At least it helps with stash editing! Whenever I swatch stuff to find dupes I end up totally convinced I haz 0 dupes in my collection :P

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  9. LoL at your definition for your "winter color story"! :D
    Diapason looks beautiful on you. It looks much cooler on you than what I saw from other blogs, but I'm pretty sure that I would opt out for Illusoire if I'm to buy another Illusion D'Ombre (I'm known to buy Chanel things a couple season late at least -_-;;).
    I haven't warmed up towards any spring collection (yet), but I must say I like the warm purple + coral hues I see lately. :)

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    1. It's interesting! I think on most people things swatch differently to how they wear on the eyes, but I haven't really found any eye looks posted thus far -- but then again, if it reads as a very warm red-brown-plum I imagine most people would find it too unflattering to show! :) Inconclusive!

      Sign me up for purple+coral, in any season :D

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  10. While Diapason would make me look like the loser of a bar fight, on you it is otherworldly.

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    1. eh, opium-eater, bar-fight-loser, consumptive succubus, it's all good!

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  11. That shade on your gorgeous skin is like happiness exploded. It was MADE for your face! Swear!

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    1. D: But why did happiness explode? *pieces it back together*
      ty, you mad woman! :D

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  12. I think you're right Kate. I think Diapason pulls much more warm toned on me due to my skin tone, because in the pot I can clearly see the color shift. Though, I can see the color shift when I wear it as well, it's just not as strong. It looks absolutely stunning on you. Really beautiful.

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    1. Thanks so much for weighing in, Jenny! I really love your pictures and find them helpful, so was scratching my head over this one!

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  13. I swatched it but didn't buy it. The blue in it was very strong against my skin tone. I wonder why!! And really... how do you use these things so fast???? HAHAHA!

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    1. HOW do YOU say no to bloo, Lily? D: I am fatally weak!

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    2. Well, I did pick up the cream blush in Intonation....

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  14. Oh, sweet God, I need it. O_O It'll probably make me look like I've been punched in the face, but I DON'T CARE.

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  15. Oh, that is gorgeous! I don't need it but I waaaanntt it. Lack of funds may contribute to missing out on this but now I'm contemplating living on plain rice for the next few weeks in order to save up. :P

    Also, you may have answered this elsewhere but what camera do you use? Your pictures are stunning but then you're stunning!

    Take care. :)

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    1. It's joining the permanent line, so eat, drink and be merry :)

      Thank you so much! I use a Canon 600D with a 50mm/f1.8 for face shots and 60mm/f2.8 macro lens for product shots.

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  16. oh your poor Illusoire..sad times....
    I do like the colour of Diapason, really pretty on you, though not sure it would work to well on me.
    I'm of the old school take swatches by open window as well :)

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    1. ;) Well I love your pictures so that's ££ saved on expensive lighting equipment, then! :D

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  17. Ahhhhh! Purply-taupe, purply-taupe--my makeup KRYPTONITE!!!! :D :D :D

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