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Tuesday, 4 February 2014

YSL Spring Dohwa Look

This edition of Testing Tuesday is Dohwa Dienstag! Because iz international wimmin of mystery, innit? And alliteration.

To showcase a few of the YSL goodies I'm giving away (you have two more days to enter, so get cracking!), I could think of no better look than a version of "Dohwa" makeup -- Do Hwa in Korean means 'peach blossom', abstract peach blossoms are on the cover of the YSL Beauty Blossom Collector Palette, and sprays and pots of the stuff are currently strewn all about Hong Kong to mark the Spring Festival / Lunar New Year. The stars, they align!

This was the best picture I could get of the Times Square display. Remember the 80 proof booze, yeah?

Ever since Amy left a fantastic comment drawing this Korean trend to my attention (thank you, Amy!) I've been having such fun trying it out and pretending to be Oh Ji-Young that NOT bringing liner in to sharpen the inner corner now feels unnatural. The tutorials I mashed together for today's look are:

1. Amy's original link from so young's beauty room, which features a great quick breakdown of the aesthetic and easy, approachable application (link):

2. A slightly more elaborate version from Pony's Beauty Diary, which uses some different tricks (e.g. multiple flicks) to achieve some similar effects, and a hilarious experiment to see whether dohwa makeup really does make one irresistibly sexy.... (link)


3. Korean TV show 'Get It Beauty' did an episode on Dohwa makeup last year, including guest plastic surgeons and physiognomists (seriously, physiognomists still exist?! And I will never get over how prevalent plastic surgery is in South Korea), moar pseudoscience delivered with hysterical cut-aways to members of the audience/panel nodding in enlightenment/sagacity (Hyun-A's sexiness is to all due to her round nose and nothing at all to do with the semi-naked writhing around bath bubbles breathy singing about 'cream'? Right.) but also a really good makeover section with what seems to me a more subtle and thoughtful application, aegyo sal and all.
An English-subtitled version is online (part I and part II) and I strongly recommend all beauty geeks to take a gander.


The products I used for my mashup include the Beauty Blossom Collector Palette[*], Rouge Volupté #34 Rose Asarine[*] and Cream Eyeliner in #5 Cherry Black from my YSL giveaway, but these are my own products -- the giveaway winner will be getting brand new versions, of course. The eyeshadow colours I chose are inspired by YSL's spring Pivoine Crush quint (see silverkis and mostlysunny for more) but tweaked for my colouring and skin:
1. and 2. come from Shu Uemura x Karl Lagerfeld Prestigious Bordeaux
3. from Shu x Karl Smoky Velvet (EU version)
4. Fire-Tailed Sunbird, 5. Capricious Nightingale and 6. Sweet Dust Seriema are all by Rouge Bunny Rouge.


I kept things very soft and pretty and springy (I know, I know... florals, for spring...?) with some holographic pinkypeach (4) washed over the lid, adding depth to the inner and outer corners with a silver-dusted rose (1) and blending everything out with a my-skin-but-sheenier icy white-pink (5). On the lower lashline I added a dab more rose (1) at the inner 1/3 to join the upper lid and narrow the eye there, patted a mix of coppery- and white- golds (2+3) over the centre (la, I cry golden tears!), and shaded the other corner with matte taupe (6) extended outwards.
More of the matte taupe (6) on an eyeliner brush to sketch an aegyo sal line underneath my eye, and subtly highlighted the 'pad' with (5). YSL Cherry Black liner extended in a curvy dohwa flick and sharpening inner corner (which looks off-black in my terrible lighting, sorry!)
Doubled-up mascaras with Fasio Full Dynamic Volume and Long, for dohwa's epic lashy look.



YSL Beauty Blossom Collector Palette blush swept onto apples -- lower, more centralised placement than I usually go for, to go for a dohwa rabbit face (?!) and Rose Asarine on lips. I didn't take the thin-upper-fuller-lower lip thing too seriously, underdrawing the upper lip only slightly, blending out with foundation, but tried to achieve the upward tilting petal-pout shape from the Get It Beauty makeover. I do take this lipstick very seriously, however. Since deodorising it* I've worn no other colour for days. DAYS.

Base is Graftobian Porcelain mixed with Suqqu Makeup Base Creamy, with Burberry Sheer 01 concealer under eyes, and Shiseido High Beam White as copious central-face highlight. Brows Shu Uemura Hard 9 Seal Brown (I tried blunting and moving my natural arches inwards for a slightly more rounded dohwa brow but suspect I'm too hairy for serious brow tweaks.)

Apart from the lower blush placement (which just makes me look a bit globular, really, and not sold on rabbitface as something to aspire to anyway....), I find this look immensely flattering. In-built smize, yo! No-one's chased after and and prostrated themselves at my feet, however, so I declare the irresistible blossom effect LIES. Shocking, eh. If you try it, promise to let me know all the salacious deets of the scandalous love affairs that ensue.


*deodorising: airtight box, charcoal deodoriser, wayward lipsticks (Innisfree Creamy Lip Tint 15 Apple Red, YSL Rouge Volupté 34 Rose Asarine[*], YSL RV Shine 5 Fuchsia In Excess[*]), a few days. Done!



Disclosure: products marked with [*] were given to me free of charge

47 comments:

  1. Hey Kate, first of all: why have I not thought about deodorizing some of my lipsticks earlier? There are scents that I really dislike. I suppose if they become weaker, I'd be more inclined to reach for those lipsticks!

    Second, ahhhhh what a pretty look! It's so youthful, but not juvenile. Your skin looks REALLY good here, too!

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    1. I'd only tried the 'leave upcapped method' but the ghostly lingering scent would still drive me mad! This one really does the trick :D

      Thank you so much! The Graftobian foundations photograph really well but look less great on my dry skin IRL *hides*

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  2. OMG i love your curvy dohwa flick. on my side, i have been doing that all the time (since a year ago, since i watched Flowers of War and watched Ni Ni there - i know it's not Korean related, but this is with respect to eye makeups revolving around sexy-black-lined-rather-slanted-oh-so-beautifuleyes)
    Now i know what it's called. curvy. dohwa. FLICK.

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    1. Aw, she definitely has curvy smize going on :)
      And for me the shape of the lips drawn in the Get It Beauty makeover (thinned out towards the ends, voluptuously curvy in the middle) recalled those found in Chinese costume dramas too.

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  3. I haven't encountered a lip product with a scent too strong yet, but when I do (Yes, WHEN. Haha.) I'll know what to do.

    Amazing look as always!

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    1. hah! It must be your addition to tropical thrills! :D Everyone has their own weak point! Might yours be bacon-flavoured lipstick? I suspect I'd like those....

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  4. Oh I wish I could draw on the inner corners of my eyes. I can't do that without smudging it and looking like I'm crying black tears >_< There goes my dream of drawing a crisp sexy inner corner cat eye thingy. This is a gorgeous look, Kate. Love this one and the tear drop pearls you did recently. Tried to play the videos too but they don't seem to work for me :-(

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    1. onoes! My eyes are watery but my lids produce 0 oil so can't recommend anything :( The YSL liners wear like IRON on me -- I actually reach for them whenever I do mu for a girlfriend who complains of smudging with most things.

      Added links to the vids :* TY for letting me know!

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  5. It's rather amazing how well you wear the pinks and peaches! The look is very springy and floral! I've not heard of all the Dohwa thing until recently, and I love your modern interpretation of it. You haz skills and skills for alliteratin'.

    And deodorizing stinky lipsticks. You understand, this changes everything. Everything. I wonder if I can try this on a Glossy Stain without drying it out. I think I will try it with a L'Oreal one first to see if this works.

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    1. A red lipstick makes all the looks work! I haz realised.

      Sadly the deodorising failed to have any effect on the YSL glosses I tried :( But mebbe I needed MOAR charcoal or indeed kryptonite?

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  6. Omg this is so pretty! I was so sure you were smiling and not doing your usual poetic-look-to-the-side face...but it was the MAKEUP! I swear anything you wear makes want to immediately buy it. The eagyo sal thing is probably the same as namidabukuro in japanese right? Or did the koreans come up with something new AGAIN? The lipsticks are great! I just gave my Chanel La Palpitante to my mom but it seems like I need another blue red now...like I didn't own a ton lol. The JS Lip Blossom in Pretty Poppy seems to be purely red, no warm or blue undertones, so it's less peachy blossomy than I want. I know Suqqu Usubeni is a blueish red but...the pigmentation level makes me cry. Maybe I'll try to get some Chicca Mesmeric. Oh I just remembered! Did you see the new Mythic lipstick at Elégance? It seems to be yet another glossy balmy lipstick formulation! Their red seems pretty good for this look.

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    1. LMFAOOOOOOO! Bless you for describing it as poetic :D I call it my hide-the-asymmetries-catch-the-window-avoid squinting-or-smirking face :P
      And yes, same as namida bukuro but I *think* the trend / hypervisibility originated in Korea, and it was definitely more popular/mainstream a trend there first.

      Did I tell you the new JS lipsticks were ALL sold out / testers pulled by the time I got back to Hong Kong? :O I threw a small tantrum at the last counter. It's been years since I've experienced that kind of thing (i.e. since I stopped following MAC limited edition collections).

      Please let me know your thoughts if you try the Elégance or Chicca ones :D

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    2. I wonder if you'll see this but anyway I'll still reply. First of all, YES when I was still in HS the namidabukuro--can't do Korean sorry, the language is too complicated--thingy was already a trend in Korea but they used to used stark white allover their eyebags, the darker shading is definitely something new that came out recently. My friend used to tell me the fat under your eyes make you look cuter so you don't need to put white unlike the korean stars...(she's talking about my namidabukuros here) Second of all, YES I knew about how everything was sold out litterally two days after the collection came out, they had various special sets and gifts for the event as well so that didn't help to keep any goodies for the time you went back. I saw them posting an apology for it on JS HK's FB page actually, that's how serious the OOS situation was :D I gladly reserved my items two months before the release so I knew I'd get my stuff, PLUS I also was lucky enough to score TWO gift sets which included so many awesome goodies I felt like I won the jackpot. Now everytime I buy something JS I feel like I'm entitled to a mountain of GWPs, which is seriously not the case. On a separate note, their new 5000 point gift is a ridiculous steel plate...I don't know who is the ***** behind this idea but really...WHY would they go from a gorgeous huge standing mirror to a PLATE?

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  7. I'd wear that lipstick every day too, deodorized or not. Stunning!

    More peach/dohwa related factoid: there's an old timey Korean thing about eating peaches in the dark. You can't see the tiny fruit worm that you might be eating, and the little worm is added nutrition to make your skin look more beautiful along with the peach. SEDUCTION TACTIC.

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    1. Sadly my nose is also of the delicate-little-blossom-variety! It responds to smells it don't like by watering copious rivers of SNOT.

      ........ D: Y U tell me this wormy tale. And WHY are all the ingestible things supposed to make our skins beautiful (e.g. semen, shark's fin) so...glutinous.

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  8. That lipstick is HAWT.

    Also, ew at Liz's story up there. I tend to ignore those bits of ancient Korean "wisdom," because, ew.

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    1. NGL "I feel pretty! Oh so pretty! I feel pretty! And Witty! and Briiiiiiiight!" runs through my head all day when I wear it.

      And also ew :( I've been rather sheltered from such things I see. In my baby pics from my toljiabee you can see the sash is tied all wrong on my dolbok, lol cultural ignorance ftw.

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  9. This is a lovely look, and the lipstick deodorizing is GENIUS. I cannot stand the scent of the Milani lipsticks, but the formula is really excellent, so I will have to try it.

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    1. 'Twas a tip from a most cunning MUAer! :D Let me know how it works out! I haven't noticed it changing the textures of the lipsticks I tried, but three is hardly a representative sample.

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  10. Aw, totally beautiful! I like your rendition of do hwa makeup quite a bit more than the rendition in the original video, to be honest :D

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    1. Ooooh also, I'm going to Hong Kong next month - and I want (NEEEED) to buy makeup! I would LOVE your recommendations on where to buy cosmetics! Thank you in advance!! <3

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    2. Thank you so much :D I still mean to do a proper aggressive red/burgundy version some time, though :D

      Oooh! Let me work on a post for you :D But if your trip is brief I'd head for Causeway Bay for the greatest concentration of goodies.

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  11. Aww this lipstick is gorgeous! I'm puzzled about the charcoal thingy, though, as you know that I hate the YSL scent.
    Random but I can't wait for cherry blossoms to bloom. One of my favorite times of the year :)

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    1. Ah, I wasn't familiar with them either, but they're sold all over Hong Kong to deal with the humidity and mustiness that comes with it. Pretty much everyone puts them in all their cupboards (and fridges) here to soak up the smells :) So they can handle a couple of lipsticks no problem!

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  12. So does having constantly teary, red eyes from allergies and rosacea mean the dudes would be throwing themselves at me in Korea? Somehow I don't think so! I'll just live vicariously because that looks amazing on you!

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    1. :O Do you think no-one threw themselves at me because I'm not in KOREA?? Must book flight and try again. For Science!
      heh, I thought it was interesting that the Get It Beauty program panel were careful to make the distinction between 'dohwa' physiognomy and 'pretty'.

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  13. Beauty everywhere!
    Your lashes look particularly lush today, I must investigate those mascaras. Though I will pay through the nose for international shipping if I find a place. Curse regional products!

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    1. Adambeauty has with their usual delicious $2 intl shipping! :)
      To be honest I think the two together are overkill! I could *feel* my lashes with every blink and that was not fun.

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  14. I won't pretend to understand what all this is about but I love it all the same! :)

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  15. It look so beautiful on you!!! All that pretty pink and peach colors in your blessed skin I could kill to have your complexion!

    Well not true that will be Jennifer Lopez almost fifty years at all, who cares! her skin is deep golden, golden!! but if I have to choose a pale one it will be yours :)

    I have been eying that dohwa look for months as a fallow all of them and more asian make up gurus on my journey to find how to do my eye make up (they are small,round,droopy,wide seat,small eyelid and hooded. just kill me now...) and Pony have even wrinkles in one eyelid like I do too so I think it will be easier to find a tutorial for eyes like mine with asian makeup artists maybe?

    But because all of them lighter their foundation when doing the dohwa look I was confused on what to do when your skin tone is really pale, use white? But now thanks to you I know what to do! :D

    I will try it when the pink colors stop changing on my skin, yes even with primer (to pink to red...why ph why?) soon I hope as my Suqqu and Three stash is almost here and I will be so sad if the oxidize on me :( and it will be again the debacle that it was Chanel Notorious, I wanted it so much as I have been never be able to find a contour color(I use Mac shadow in scene and even with sparkles is the only thing that doesn't look too bad on me) and I got it for my birthday and I was so happy! and it turned purple on me! (the bad kind) and it looked like I have sparkly bruises al over my face so I have to give it away.

    Some day I will leave a comment and not a letter.

    What do you think about the Kryolan blue primer? As the blue foundation apparently is only sold in UK and I cant get it do you think it could work for me?

    Thanks

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    1. I would still like to be a nice neutral NC/W20 if I had the choice! D: But thank you, lol

      I hope you have fun playing with some Asian inspired placements :D Your eyes sound lovely. It's taken me a long time but I quite appreciate my small eyes / limited lid space now -- I can get away with much bolder makeup because my hoods hide most of it, lol

      Yeah, I just ignored the white-face-dark-neck skin thing, lol. I hate that particular trend just as much as orange-face-white-neck thing I see so much in the UK.

      pH oxidisation is tough! :( I have never tried (or even seen) the Kryolan primers, so can't help, sorry!

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  16. ^ Long time lurker and MUA stalker (>_>). Wanted to drop a line and say the deodorizing technique is BRILLIANT. The YSL lipsticks seriously stink. I hate it when high-end brands add such complexly artificial fragrances to otherwise wonderful products. There was a Givenchy foundation I tried and liked well enough but the scent was overwhelming. Sharp and headache-inducing and lasted for hours. I had to return it because of this reason.

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    1. >.> who are youuuuu?
      Scented eyeshadows and mascaras are the most bewildering to me. But really, much as I love my florals (I own a bottle of the dc'd Meteorites perfume, even) I'd rather all makeup be scent-free.

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  17. i really like Pony's look. and when i went to korea i tried to pick up one for her makeup books but...there was too much writing and not enough photos to really make it evident what i had to do :( i'm glad you linked her youtube vids!
    Jenn

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    1. Happy to help :) I like how approachable and practical she is :)

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  18. Such a pretty Dowha, very fitting with the Spring + your porcelain skin. Btw, I tried doing the deodorizing lipstick thing with baking soda, didn't work w/ my stinky Burberry lipsticks -- maybe not long enough? maybe not air-tight enough? BUT maybe charcoal deodorizer may work, I just need to find one around here.

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    1. <3
      I'm not sure, Claire! But worth a shot, no? :) I know you love Korean food so you can also put the deodoriser in the fridge next to the kimchi if it doesn't work for lipsticks.

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  19. LOVE that liner on you, and that lipstick is a really beautiful shade! Do the YSL liners smudge? I've always thought the colors in the line looked beautiful, but something about the very creamy looking consistency screams "smudge" to me...

    Adele

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    1. They are the most bomb-proof potted liners I know, A! I reach for them first when I do mu for a smudge-prone girlfriend. I'm not sure how they manage it because they are very creamy / workable and have stayed so for me over years. o.O demon magic.

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  20. Kate, you totally got me hooked on Miss Korea and hours of untold liner mystery/misery!!

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    1. <3 bwahaha :D It packs quite a punch for a fluffy romcom! New ep tonight, wheeeee! Wish you could come over for popcorn and face masks, lol

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  21. The aegyo sal trend is so interesting! (Just googled it) The translation looks to be "charming fat", referring to puffy undereyes that are supposed to make you look like you're smiling all the time. I could never pull it off because I don't have any kind of plump skin there and would probably end up looking like a zombie, but you pull it off prettily!

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  22. You do find the best stuff, Kate! I loved the video and actually tried the pink shadow under my eyes today. It is really very flattering, much moremsomthan I expected.

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  23. This look is so pretty :) <3 Fire-Tailed Sunbird & Sweet Dust Seriema (so sad it might be gone, it's the perfect brow colour)

    This charcoal deodorising thing, can't find anything like that in Australia... eh charcoal pellets at the pet store lol. I'm wondering, which type works better? There is regular, activated, gel? Can I get a fridge or car type and use that the same way? Also this means I might be able to buy P&J balls lol Oh so many things I can't (because smells bad to me) use might be usable now.

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  24. Gorrrrgeous! as much as you bemoan your dry skin you always look fabulously glowing porcelain perfect in your photos!

    The smizing effect is super cutesexy too, gotta give this technique a try because I sure can't smize for sh#t. That said tho,I always find any eyeliner or shadows I use on my inner corner to line just dissolves after 2-3 hrs and I end up with black/brown eyepoo instead!!! D: FML

    www.this lipstick life.com

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  25. LOVE your looks!! But you already know I think you are gorg!

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